Inspection Report. Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones. Property Address: 100 First Street Springfield NY Suburban Consultants Ltd.

Transcription

1 Inspection Report Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones Property Address: 100 First Street Springfield NY Suburban Consultants Ltd. William Murphy NYS License # PO Box 270 East Norwich, NY (800)

2 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Table of Contents Cover Page...1 Table of Contents...2 Invoice...3 Intro Page Exterior Grounds Exterior Building Envelope Garage Roofing Attic Electrical System Basement/Structural Components Heating/Central Air Conditioning Plumbing System Bathrooms Laundry Fireplaces/Solid Fuel Burning Devices Kitchen/Built-In Appliances Interior Rooms Supplemental Comments...23 General Summary First Street Page 2 of 26

3 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones INVOICE Suburban Consultants Ltd. PO Box 270 East Norwich, NY (800) Inspected By: William Murphy Inspection Date: 12/11/2012 Report ID: B Customer Info: Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones 1234 Washington Road Lincoln NY Inspection Property: 100 First Street Springfield NY Customer's Real Estate Professional: Nancy White Remax NY Inspection Fee: Service Price Amount Sub-Total Inspection Fee Wood Destroying Insect Report Payment Method: Check Payment Status: Paid At Time Of Inspection Note: Thank You Tax $0.00 Total Price $ First Street Page 3 of 26

4 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Date: 12/11/2012 Time: 10:00 AM Report ID: B Property: 100 First Street Springfield NY Customer: Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones Real Estate Professional: Nancy White Remax NY Subject property is an attached two story wood frame structure estimated to be 26 years old. Home is a one family dwelling constructed to accommodate year-round occupancy. Visible evidence indicates an acceptable level of construction. Building is considered in above average condition. Note-1: Exterior landscape maintenance, roof surface/ accessory maintenance, and exterior building maintenance are provided by homeowners association. Standards of Practice: NYS & ASHI American Society of Home Inspectors Type of building: Single Family (2 story), Condominium Style of Home: Town House Approximate age of building: 26 years Home Faces: East Temperature: 46(F) Weather: Clear Ground/Soil surface condition: Wet/Swampy Fire Hydrant: 100 Yards 100 First Street Page 4 of 26

5 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 1. Exterior Grounds Phase 1: Exterior Grounds Includes Inspection of: landscaping, driveways, walkways, entry porches, decks, patios, fences, sheds, pools, and retaining wall systems. Styles & Materials Landscaping: Good Condition Entry Porch: Concrete Items 1.0 Landscaping Driveway: Asphalt Deck/Patio: Wood Walkway: Concrete Retaining Wall: Exterior landscaping appears well maintained and in good condition (see note-1). Perimeter trees and shrubs contact building at various locations, advise future maintenance by a licensed tree/landscape specialist. Property grade has a pitch toward building from west direction, commonly resulting in site erosion, poor drainage, and basement water penetration. West yard deck area wood perimeter fence is aged and in deteriorated condition, future repair or replacement will be required (see note-1). Wood Note-1: Exterior landscape maintenance, roof surface/accessory maintenance, and exterior building maintenance are provided by homeowners association. 1.1 Driveway Moderate settlement cracking and deterioration of asphalt driveway surface is present (fig. 1), advise repair and sealcoat application, anticipate future re-paving. 1.2 Walkway, Repair or Replace Settlement damage was noted at east concrete perimeter walkway (fig. 2). Further inspection and repair by a licensed masonry contractor is advised to reduce risk of trip hazard and accidental personal injury. 1.3 Entry Porch East concrete main entry porch appears professionally installed and in good condition (fig. 3). Typical settlement and surface cracking was noted. Advise routine future power washing to remove moss growth and reduce risk of trip hazard. 1.4 Patio/Deck, Repair or Replace West yard upper and ground level wood decks construction level appears satisfactory but decks are poorly maintained and in deteriorated condition (fig. 4, 5a), moderate wood rot exists. Insufficient support of deck step was noted. Deck stairs of three or more steps or exceeding 18" typically require safety railing installation to meet compliance with standard building code (fig. 5b). Repair, reinforcement, power wash, and wood preservative application by a licensed deck specialist is advised. 1.5 Retaining Wall 100 First Street Page 5 of 26

6 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones West yard wood landscape retaining wall system is well constructed and appears in good condition (fig. 6). Section Photos fig. 1 fig. 2 fig. 3 fig. 4 fig. 5 fig Exterior Building Envelope Phase 2: Exterior Building Envelope Includes Inspection of: exterior foundations walls, exterior wall siding materials and finishes, windows, entry doors, exterior lighting & receptacles, and basement entry. 100 First Street Page 6 of 26

7 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Styles & Materials Foundation Walls: Poured Concrete Exterior Entry Doors: Metal Clad Items 2.0 Exterior Foundation Walls Exterior Wall Siding: Vinyl Stone Exterior Windows: Aluminum Frame Visible exterior concrete foundation walls appear in good condition. Minor settlement cracks were noted at various wall locations. This condition is considered common and typical. 2.1 Exterior Wall Siding, Repair or Replace Exterior stone and vinyl wall siding materials appear well installed and in good condition (see note-1) (fig. 7a, 8a). Recommend routine future power-washing to remove moss/mold growth. Re-sealing and caulking of A/C service entrance lines is advised to reduce risk of moisture, insect, and cold air infiltration (fig. 9). 2.2 Windows, Repair or Replace Exterior original aluminum frame thermal insulated windows are operative, in fair condition, and appear well trimmed and sealed (fig. 7b, 8b). Failed thermal seals were noted at 1st floor family room window and 2nd floor master bedroom window resulting in visible interior glass condensation stains (fig. 10). Future repair or replacement by a licensed window specialist is recommended. 2.3 Window Wells 2.4 Exterior Entry Doors Exterior entry doors are operational and in satisfactory condition (fig. 7c). Exterior wood door frames and sills condition indicates a lack of maintenance (fig. 11). Advise scrape, sand, and repainting to reduce risk of further deterioration (see note-1). 2.5 Exterior Lighting/Receptacles, Repair or Replace West deck area exterior lighting & receptacles are not functional (fig. 12). Further inspection and repair by a licensed specialist is advised. Installation of exterior GFCI receptacles is advised for improved safety and convenience. 100 First Street Page 7 of 26

8 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Section Photos fig. 7 fig. 8 fig. 9 fig. 10 fig. 11 fig Garage Phase 3: Garage Area Includes Inspection of: overhead entry doors, floors surfaces, wall & ceiling surfaces, lighting & electrical service, and garage access doors. Styles & Materials Garage Type: Built-In Garage Size: 1 Car 100 First Street Page 8 of 26

9 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Items 3.0 Garage Door (s) Metal sectional entry door is operational and appears in good condition. Auto door opener safety stop is functional. 3.1 Garage Floor Typical/Moderate/Advanced surface cracks are visible on the garage floor. Cluttered condition exists in garage area preventing complete inspection of floor and walls. 3.2 Garage Walls, Repair or Replace Active wood destroying insect infestation exists at various sill plate locations (fig. 13). Further inspection, treatment, and continued preventive maintenance coverage by a licensed pest control specialist is advised. 3.3 Garage Ceilings 3.4 Lighting/Receptacles Garage lighting and receptacles are functional. Recommend future installation of added GFCI receptacles for improved safety and convenience. 3.5 Access Door Metal clad access door to foyer is functional. Advise installation of access door stairway safety railing to reduce risk of trip hazard (fig. 14). Section Photos fig. 13 fig Roofing Phase 4: Roofing System Includes Inspection of: roof drainage systems, roof covering materials, signs of leakage, accessories & flashings, and chimney vent structures. The home inspector is not required to: Walk on the roofing; or Observe attached accessories including but not limited to solar systems, antennae, and lightning arrestors. 100 First Street Page 9 of 26

10 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Styles & Materials Roof Type: Gable Roof Covering: Aspahalt Shingle Roof Accessories & Flashing: Good Condition Items 4.0 Roof Drainage Systems Inspected Roof From: Roof Edge Roof Layers: 1 Chimney (exterior): Metal Flue Pipe Wood/Vinyl Clad Gutter System: Aluminum Estimated Age: 0-5 years Aluminum gutter and downspout systems appear in good condition. Advise routine removal of debris from gutter systems to ensure proper roof drainage (see note-1). 4.1 Fascias & Soffits 4.2 Roof Coverings Asphalt shingle roof surface appears professionally installed, in good condition, and is estimated to be 5 years old (fig. 15a) (see note-1). Typical life cycle is years. Note-1: Exterior landscape maintenance, roof surface/accessory maintenance, and exterior building maintenance are provided by homeowners association. 4.3 Roof Accessories & Flashings Roof accessories and visible flashing appear in good condition (fig. 15b) (see note-1). 4.4 Chimney(s) Wood/vinyl clad metal chimney vent structure appears in satisfactory condition (fig. 16b) (see note-1). Section Photos fig. 15 fig. 16 The roof of the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Roof coverings and skylights can appear to be leak proof during inspection and weather conditions. Our inspection makes an attempt to find a leak but sometimes cannot. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 100 First Street Page 10 of 26

11 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 5. Attic Phase 5: Attic Includes Inspection of: roof structure, roof rafters, roof sheathing materials, insulation, and ventilation. Styles & Materials Attic Access: Limited Insulation type: Fiberglass Items 5.0 Attic Structure Attic Structure: Rafter Insulation Depth: 4-6" Roof Sheathing: Plywood Limited access or entry is available to attic area for inspection. Visible attic area is well constructed and appears in good condition (fig. 17, 18a, 19a). Visible attic insulation is well installed and appears in satisfactory condition (fig. 18b, 19b). 5.1 Ventilation, Repair or Replace Attic is poorly ventilated. Future installation of attic exhaust fan and additional roof vents is advised to provide more attic ventilation, reduce attic moisture/temperature, and consumption of A/C systems. Bathroom exhaust fans are vented into attic (fig. 20), advise proper venting to building exterior to reduce risk of excessive attic moisture. Section Photos fig. 17 fig. 18 fig. 19 fig First Street Page 11 of 26

12 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 6. Electrical System Phase 6: Electrical System Includes Inspection of: entrance cable(s), entrance cable conduits, meter pans, amperage and voltage ratings of the service, main distribution panels, auxiliary sub-panels, service disconnects, visible branch circuit wiring, branch circuit conductors, their over current devices, and the compatibility of their ampacities and voltages, GFCI circuit receptacles, and electrical system grounding components. The home inspector is not required to: Insert any tool, probe, or testing device inside the panels; Test or operate any over current device except ground fault circuit interrupters; Dismantle any electrical device or control other than to remove the covers of the main and auxiliary distribution panels; or Observe: Low voltage systems; Security system devices, heat detectors, or carbon monoxide detectors; Telephone, security, cable TV, intercoms, or other ancillary wiring that is not a part of the primary electrical distribution system; or Built-in vacuum equipment. Styles & Materials Electrical Service Conductors: Below ground Panel Type: Circuit breakers Wiring Methods: Romex Items 6.0 Electrical Service Service Amps: 225 Amps Electric Panel Manufacturer: GENERAL ELECTRIC Grounding: Water Main Ground Rod Panel capacity: 225 AMP Branch wire 15 and 20 AMP: Copper Electrical components appear professionally installed and are in functional condition. Electrical service consists of one (1) 225 amp copper service entrance cable servicing one (1) 225 amp main distribution panel located in garage (fig. 21). 6.1 Service Panels Main distribution panel supplies 50 amp circuit to basement auxiliary sub-panel (fig. 22). 6.2 Wiring Section Photos fig. 21 fig First Street Page 12 of 26

13 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones The electrical system of the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Outlets were not removed and the inspection was only visual. Any outlet not accessible (behind the refrigerator for example) was not inspected or accessible. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 7. Basement/Structural Components Phase 7: Basement & Structural Components Includes Inspection of visible: foundation walls, floor surfaces, wall surfaces, columns/piers, beams, floor joists, sill plates, ceilings, windows/doors, lighting & receptacles, and stairways. The Home Inspector shall observe structural components including foundations, floors, walls, columns or piers, and ceilings. The home inspector shall describe the type of foundation, floor structure, wall structure, columns or piers, ceiling structure. The home inspector shall: Probe structural components where deterioration is suspected; Enter under floor crawl spaces and basements except when access is obstructed, when entry could damage the property, or when dangerous or adverse situations are suspected; Report the methods used to observe under floor crawl spaces and attics; and Report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components. The home inspector is not required to: Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to or adversely effect the health of the home inspector or other persons. Styles & Materials Basement: Partially Finished Beams: Wood Items 7.0 Floor Foundation: Poured concrete Support Columns: Steel Wood Framing Components: Acceptable Limitations: Extremely Cluttered Various cracks in concrete floor and wall surfaces are considered typical and common. 7.1 Walls Basement is constructed with poured concrete foundation walls and standard wood framing components (fig. 23). Basement area is partially finished with fixed floor, wall, and ceiling covers preventing complete inspection of construction components. Low moisture readings of up to 15.6% were present at perimeter wall locations tested. However, visible evidence of past moisture/water penetration and resulting water damaged to carpeting was observed at southwest corner (fig. 24). Listing real estate broker represents that installation of a basement perimeter drainage system by a licensed specialist took place subsequent to water/moisture entry. Requesting production of all related documentation including warranty information from current homeowner is advised. Routine use of basement windows for improved ventilation, maintenance of exterior roof gutter drainage systems, and installation of a dehumidifier will reduce basement moisture levels. Visible construction and wood framing components appear in good condition. No visible evidence of active wood destroying insect infestation is present, however, continued preventive maintenance coverage by a licensed pest control specialist is advised. 7.2 Ceiling Evidence of past moisture/water stain was noted on ceiling. No moisture reading was present at inspection, leak appears inactive. Advise routine future monitoring. 100 First Street Page 13 of 26

14 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 7.3 Windows Basement windows are operative and appear in satisfactory condition. 7.4 Doors 7.5 Lighting Basement lighting is functional. 7.6 Receptacles Receptacles are functional. Recommend future installation of GFCI receptacles for improved safety and convenience. 7.7 Stairway/Railing 7.8 Heating Source Absence of heating source was noted. Section Photos fig. 23 fig. 24 The structure of the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 100 First Street Page 14 of 26

15 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 8. Heating/Central Air Conditioning Phase 8: Heating & Cooling Systems Includes Inspection of : energy source, permanently installed heating and cooling systems that are central to home; normal operating controls; automatic safety controls; chimneys, flues, and vents, where readily visible; solid fuel heating devices; heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units, convectors; and the presence of an installed heat source in each room. The home inspector is not required to: Operate heating or cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage; Operate automatic safety controls; Ignite or extinguish solid fuel fires; or Observe: The interior of flues; Fireplace insert flue connections; Humidifiers; Electronic air filters; or The uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms. Styles & Materials Heat Type: Heat Pump Forced Air (also provides cool air) Heating System Age: 5-10 years Filter Type: Disposable Number of AC Only Units: Two Items 8.0 Smoke Detectors Comments: Not Inspected Installation and Routine Testing is Advised 8.1 CO Detectors Comments: Not Inspected Installation and Routine Testing is Advised 8.2 Thermostat/Operating Controls 8.3 Heating Equipment Energy Source: Electric Life Expectancy: Typical Central Air Manufacturer: INTERTHERM American Standard Heat System Brand: AMERICAN STANDARD Ductwork: Partially insulated A/C System Age(s): 5-10 years Heating components consist of two electric fired forced hot air A/C-Heat-Pump systems estimated to be 10 years old (fig. 25). Systems are operational and appear in good condition. Advise continued maintenance coverage by a licensed HVAC contractor and installation of functional smoke and C/O detectors on all floors. 8.4 Electric Heating Family room and master bedroom supplemental electric baseboard heating units are functional. 8.5 Forced Air Components and Air Handler Equipment 100 First Street Page 15 of 26

16 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Forced air components (2 air handlers) are operational (fig. 26, 27). Check filters monthly - service when dirty. Continued maintenance coverage by a licensed HVAC contractor is recommended. 8.6 Central A/C Outdoor temperature prevented testing of A/C portion of systems. Section Photos fig. 25 fig. 26 fig. 27 fig. 28 The heating and cooling system of this home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. The inspection is not meant to be technically exhaustive. The inspection does not involve removal and inspection behind service door or dismantling that would otherwise reveal something only a licensed heat contractor would discover. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 100 First Street Page 16 of 26

17 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 9. Plumbing System Phase 9: Plumbing Components Includes Inspection of : Interior water supply and distribution system, piping materials, fixtures and faucets; functional flow; leaks; and cross connections. Waste drainage, and vent system, including: traps; drain, waste, vent piping, and functional drainage. Hot water systems including: water heating equipment. Operation of all plumbing fixtures, and testing of sump pumps. The home inspector is not required to: State the effectiveness of anti-siphon devices; Determine whether water supply and waste disposal systems are public or private; Operate automatic safety controls; Operate any valve except water closet flush valves, fixture faucets, and hose faucets; Observe: Water conditioning systems; Fire and lawn sprinkler systems; On-site water supply quantity and quality; On-site waste disposal systems; Foundation irrigation systems; Spas, except as to functional flow and functional drainage; Swimming pools; Solar water heating equipment; or Observe the system for proper sizing, design, or use of proper materials. Styles & Materials Limitations: Finished Basement Concealed Components Plumbing Water Supply Main: Copper Water Heater Power Source: Electric Items 9.0 Public Water Suppy, Repair or Replace Water Source: Public Supply Plumbing Waste System: Cast iron PVC Water Heater Capacity: 80 Gallon Water Pressure: Typical Waste Drainage Performance: Normal Manufacturer: RHEEM Water main shut off valve is located at east basement wall (fig. 28). Insufficient access is available to water main shutoff valve. Further evaluation and installation of an improved access panel by a licensed specialist is advised. 9.1 Distribution Piping Visible copper plumbing hot and cold water supply components appear professionally installed and in satisfactory condition. 9.2 Waste Drainage System Waste drainage performance was normal at time of inspection. No visible evidence of past treatment/service was noted at main waste drainage line access trap (fig. 29). However, future treatment/service by a licensed sewer and drain contractor may be required. 9.3 Sewage Pump, Repair or Replace Basement bathroom waste ejector/sewage pump is operative. Do not use basement bathroom in the event of power outage. No access is available to waste pump to meet future service needs. Pump is concealed behind a finished basement wall. Further evaluation and installation of an improved access panel by a licensed specialist is advised. 100 First Street Page 17 of 26

18 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 9.4 Venting 9.5 Domestic Hot Water Delivery, Repair or Replace Electric fired 80 gallon hot water heaters (2 units) are operational but has exceeded practical life cycle (fig. 30). Water heaters are estimated to be 26 years old, typical life cycle is years. Advise routine monitoring for leakage, anticipate future replacement. Installation of a reduced capacity single water heater is recommended when replacing for improved performance and efficiency. 9.6 Exterior Hose Bibbs Exterior hose bibbs are functional. Reminder: Hose bibbs require shut-off for cold weather season to reduce risk of freezing and resulting plumbing pipe damage. Section Photos fig. 29 fig. 30 The plumbing in the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Washing machine drain line for example cannot be checked for leaks or the ability to handle the volume during drain cycle. Older homes with galvanized supply lines or cast iron drain lines can be obstructed and barely working during an inspection but then fails under heavy use. If the water is turned off or not used for periods of time (like a vacant home waiting for closing) rust or deposits within the pipes can further clog the piping system. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 10. Bathrooms Phase 10: Bathrooms Includes Inspection of: Entry doors, windows, floor surfaces, wall & ceiling surfaces, lighting, electrical, and ventilation. Sinks, faucets, & drains. Vanities & counter tops. Toilets, tubs, showers, enclosures, tub/shower faucets. Heating source. Styles & Materials Locations: Basement 1st Floor 2nd Floor Water Pressure: Normal Number of Full Bathrooms: 3 Heating Source: Forced Air Number of Half Bathrooms: 1 Visible Leaks: None 100 First Street Page 18 of 26

19 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Items 10.0 Bathrooms Subject property has a total of 3.5 bathrooms. The general condition of bathrooms is satisfactory Water Pressure 10.2 Floor 10.3 Wall/Ceiling 10.4 Window/Door 10.5 Lighting/Receptacles/Exhaust Fans Bathroom lighting fixtures and receptacles are functional. Recommend future installation of GFCI receptacles for improved safety and convenience. Bathroom exhaust fans are functional Sink/Faucet 10.7 Vanity/Counter Top 10.8 Toilet Toilets are operative Tub Ceramic/fiberglass tub enclosure appears in good condition. Advise routine regrouting and recaulking to reduce risk of interior wall and floor water penetration and related damages Shower Basement fiberglass shower enclosure appears in good condition. Second floor ceramic shower enclosure appears aged and in poor condition. Advise regrout and recaulking to reduce risk of interior wall and floor water penetration and damage. Future replacement is recommended Tub/Shower Faucet Heating 100 First Street Page 19 of 26

20 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 11. Laundry Phase 11: Laundry Appliances Includes Inspection of: clothes washers, clothes dryers, hot & cold water supplies, drainage components, venting, power/fuel source, and laundry tub sinks. Styles & Materials Washer: Whirlpool Items 11.0 Laundry Appliances Dryer: Whirlpool Laundry appliances are operational and appear in good condition. Clothes dryers require metal venting hose to building exterior and annual vent cleaning to reduce risk of safety hazard. 12. Fireplaces/Solid Fuel Burning Devices Phase 12: Fireplaces Includes Inspection of: fireplace fronts, hearths, fire boxes, visible flue/liners, dampers, gas inserts, wood/coal burning stoves, venting, and protective enclosures. The home inspector is not required to: Operate, ignite, or extinguish solid fuel fires; or Observe: The interior of flues; Fireplace insert flue connections; the uniformity or adequacy of solid fuel burning stove supply to the various rooms. Styles & Materials Type: Granite Firebox: Good Items Number of Fireplaces: 1 Damper: 12.0 Fireplace Operative Safety Enclosure: Glass/Mesh Doors Fireplace appears operational and in good condition. Recommend cleaning by a licensed chimney contractor before use. 13. Kitchen/Built-In Appliances Phase 13: Kitchen Includes Inspection of: floors surfaces, wall & ceiling surfaces, windows & doors, lighting & receptacles, sinks/faucets & drains, counter tops & cabinets, and basic operation of major appliances. 100 First Street Page 20 of 26

21 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Styles & Materials Cabinets: Laminate Sink Disposal: IN SINK ERATOR Refrigerator: GENERAL ELECTRIC Items 13.0 Flooring 13.1 Walls & Ceiling 13.2 Windows & Doors 13.3 Lighting & Receptacles Counter Tops: Laminate Range/Oven: GENERAL ELECTRIC Heating Source: Air Register Dishwasher: KITCHEN AID Built in Microwave: GENERAL ELECTRIC Lighting and receptacles are functional. Recommend future installation of GFCI receptacles for improved safety and convenience Sink, Faucet, & Drain 13.5 Cabinets & Counter Tops 13.6 Major Appliances Major appliances are operational but appear aged and in poor condition. Anticipate future replacement Cook Top Exhaust Vent Cook-top exhaust fan is functional. The built-in appliances of the home were inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report. 14. Interior Rooms Phase 14: Interior Rooms Includes Inspection of: floors surfaces, wall & ceiling surfaces, representative number of windows & doors, lighting fixtures & receptacles. Accessible closets The home inspector shall observe: Walls, ceiling, and floors; Steps, stairways, balconies, and railings. A representative number of doors, windows, lighting fixtures, and receptacles. The home inspector shall: Operate a representative number of windows/interior doors and lighting fixtures/receptacles; and report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components. The home inspector is not required to observe: Paint, wallpaper, and other finish treatments on the interior walls, ceilings, and floors; Carpeting; or Draperies, blinds, or other window treatments. 100 First Street Page 21 of 26

22 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones Styles & Materials Floor Covering(s): Carpet Ceramic Tile Interior Doors: Hollow core Heating: Forced Air Electric Baseboard Items 14.0 Interior Room Summary Comments: Wall Material: Sheet Rock Window Types: Thermal/Insulated Metal Frame Ceiling Materials: Sheet Rock # of Bedrooms: Subject property has a total of interior rooms including bedrooms. The general condition of interior rooms is poor satisfactory good Flooring Comments: 14.2 Walls & Ceilings Comments: 14.3 Windows & Doors (representative number) Comments: 14.4 Steps, Stairways, Balconies and Railings Comments: 14.5 Lighting & Receptacles Comments: The interior of the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. The inspection did not involve moving furniture and inspecting behind furniture, area rugs or areas obstructed from view. Please be aware that the inspector has your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report First Street Page 22 of 26

23 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 15. Supplemental Comments IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ This report was conducted using the standards as required by the New York State as provided in Title 19NYCRR Subparts and et seq. in Article 12B of the real Property Law. The report emphasis is on identifying Material Defects as emphasized in the Report Commentary. A Material Defect is a condition, or functional aspect, of a structural component or system that is readily ascertainable during a home inspection that SUBSTANTIALLY AFFECTS the value, habitability or safety of the dwelling, but does not include decorative, cosmetic, or aesthetic aspects of the system, structure or component. We may list some minor items for repair. However, we are only looking for items that substantially affect the value, habitability or safety of the dwelling. All items listed in the Report Commentary should be evaluated and repaired by qualified contractors; and all receipts and necessary documentation should be obtained prior to settlement. If time does not permit completion of repairs prior to settlement, obtain repair cost estimates from qualified contractors. The report is based on a visual inspection of the structure, electrical, heating, air conditioning, ventilation, plumbing, roofing and exterior wall cladding systems, on a sampling basis. An all-inclusive list of minor building repairs will not be provided. Building code and compliance issues are not covered in the inspection. LEAD BASED PAINT: It has been determined that if this home was built before 1978 it stands a high risk of having lead based paint presence. Not only is lead not good for your health, under the EPA ruling 40 CFR Part 745 effective April 22, 2010, any renovation, remodeling or painting not performed by yourself must be done by a certified contractor following lead-safe practices and this could lead to higher prices than similar contracts performed on homes that do not have lead based paint present. It is recommended that a preliminary screening for lead based paint be conducted to determine the likelihood of the presence of lead before closing if this is a concern for you. SERVICE RECORDS AND DOCUMENTATION: It is recommended to obtain service, update and replacement records from the current owner prior to the close of escrow for any work performed in the home to help determine associated upkeep costs, age of related components and possible existence of warranty or guarantee from a manufacturer or service company. FINAL WALK-THRU INSPECTION: A final walk-thru inspection of the property by the purchaser is customary in real estate transactions and is normally conducted a day before closing of the transaction. At this time, all personal property and furnishings should have been removed and an unobstructed examination of the interior is possible. You are advised to walk through and carefully observe the condition of the property for any flaws or defects that may not have been visible during the home inspection or which may have occurred since then. You are especially urged to look for any signs of water leakage and physical damage. Since the condition of mechanical equipment can change over any given time period, it is your responsibility to verify the functional condition of the various components and systems prior to settlement. You are advised to operate all appliances, plumbing fixtures and faucets, heating and cooling systems (weather permitting) and all other equipment included in the sale of the property. REPAIRS AND RENOVATIONS: All updating, maintenance and repairs performed in the home whether recommended in the report or otherwise should be performed only by qualified and licensed individuals. This provides some assurances as to the quality of work and accountability for any work contracted. It is recommended to obtain multiple estimates and check references for all contractors hired to conduct work in a home. CONSTRUCTION REGULATIONS / CODE COMPLIANCE: A standard home inspection does not include evaluation of a property for compliance with building or health codes, zoning regulations or other local codes or ordinances. Such inspections, if required, are normally performed by local officials or private code inspection agencies at the time of the original construction or renovations. Codes are revised on a periodic basis; consequently, existing structures generally do not meet current code standards, nor is such compliance usually required. Any questions regarding code compliance should be addressed to the appropriate local officials. 100 First Street Page 23 of 26

24 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones General Summary Suburban Consultants Ltd. PO Box 270 East Norwich, NY (800) Customer Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones Address 100 First Street Springfield NY The following items or discoveries indicate that these systems or components do not function as intended or adversely affects the habitability of the dwelling; or warrants further investigation by a specialist, or requires subsequent observation. This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function or efficiency of the home. This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report. 1. Exterior Grounds 1.2 Walkway Inspected, Repair or Replace Settlement damage was noted at east concrete perimeter walkway (fig. 2). Further inspection and repair by a licensed masonry contractor is advised to reduce risk of trip hazard and accidental personal injury. 1.4 Patio/Deck Inspected, Repair or Replace West yard upper and ground level wood decks construction level appears satisfactory but decks are poorly maintained and in deteriorated condition (fig. 4, 5a), moderate wood rot exists. Insufficient support of deck step was noted. Deck stairs of three or more steps or exceeding 18" typically require safety railing installation to meet compliance with standard building code (fig. 5b). Repair, reinforcement, power wash, and wood preservative application by a licensed deck specialist is advised. 100 First Street Page 24 of 26

25 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 2. Exterior Building Envelope 2.1 Exterior Wall Siding Inspected, Repair or Replace Exterior stone and vinyl wall siding materials appear well installed and in good condition (see note-1) (fig. 7a, 8a). Recommend routine future power-washing to remove moss/mold growth. Re-sealing and caulking of A/C service entrance lines is advised to reduce risk of moisture, insect, and cold air infiltration (fig. 9). 2.2 Windows Inspected, Repair or Replace Exterior original aluminum frame thermal insulated windows are operative, in fair condition, and appear well trimmed and sealed (fig. 7b, 8b). Failed thermal seals were noted at 1st floor family room window and 2nd floor master bedroom window resulting in visible interior glass condensation stains (fig. 10). Future repair or replacement by a licensed window specialist is recommended. 2.5 Exterior Lighting/Receptacles Inspected, Repair or Replace West deck area exterior lighting & receptacles are not functional (fig. 12). Further inspection and repair by a licensed specialist is advised. Installation of exterior GFCI receptacles is advised for improved safety and convenience. 3. Garage 3.2 Garage Walls Inspected, Repair or Replace Active wood destroying insect infestation exists at various sill plate locations (fig. 13). Further inspection, treatment, and continued preventive maintenance coverage by a licensed pest control specialist is advised. 5. Attic 5.1 Ventilation Inspected, Repair or Replace Attic is poorly ventilated. Future installation of attic exhaust fan and additional roof vents is advised to provide more attic ventilation, reduce attic moisture/temperature, and consumption of A/C systems. Bathroom exhaust fans are vented into attic (fig. 20), advise proper venting to building exterior to reduce risk of excessive attic moisture. 9. Plumbing System 9.0 Public Water Suppy Inspected, Repair or Replace Water main shut off valve is located at east basement wall (fig. 28). Insufficient access is available to water main shut-off valve. Further evaluation and installation of an improved access panel by a licensed specialist is advised. 9.3 Sewage Pump Inspected, Repair or Replace Basement bathroom waste ejector/sewage pump is operative. Do not use basement bathroom in the event of power outage. No access is available to waste pump to meet future service needs. Pump is concealed behind a finished basement wall. Further evaluation and installation of an improved access panel by a licensed specialist is advised. 9.5 Domestic Hot Water Delivery 100 First Street Page 25 of 26

26 Suburban Consultants Ltd. Jones 9. Plumbing System Inspected, Repair or Replace Electric fired 80 gallon hot water heaters (2 units) are operational but has exceeded practical life cycle (fig. 30). Water heaters are estimated to be 26 years old, typical life cycle is years. Advise routine monitoring for leakage, anticipate future replacement. Installation of a reduced capacity single water heater is recommended when replacing for improved performance and efficiency. Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property. Prepared Using HomeGauge : Licensed To William Murphy 100 First Street Page 26 of 26

27 Heat Pump A heat pump is a device that can gather heat from outside and bring it into the home to heat the home. While a heat pump uses electricity to gather heat, the energy consumption is only a small fraction of the energy it collects. This is the beauty of a heat pump. For every dollar of electrical energy you use, you may gain two dollars of heat energy. It s like getting something for nothing. The colder it gets outside, the more electricity the heat pump uses. If it gets very cold, the heat pump uses more energy to collect heat than it is able to collect. At this point you would be better to shut the heat pump off and use your backup heating system. This break even point is somewhere around freezing point. This is why you don t see many heat pumps in northern climates. They do work very well in moderate climates though. It s an Air Conditioner Too Of course a heat pump can cool the house too. Collect heat from inside the house and pump it outside and the home gets cooler. This is in fact what an air conditioner does. An air conditioner is actually a heat pump that is only set up to work in one direction. A heat pump will pump heat in both directions. Air-To-Air System Most heat pump systems are the air to air type. Heat is collected from the air outside. These units look almost exactly like an air conditioning system. In fact, it may be hard to tell if you are looking an air conditioner or a heat pump. Here are a two giveaway clues 1. The condenser cabinet outside may say in large letters Heat Pump. In this case it is likely a heat pump. 2. The thermostat will have a setting on it called E.M. Heat. This stands for emergency heat. In this setting the backup heat is activated. You will not have an E.M Heat setting on an air conditioning system thermostat.

28 Geothermal System The main down side to a heat pump is that it is not efficient when the outdoor temperature drops much below freezing. Once you dig down into the ground about six feet, the temperature is fairly stable year round, between 45oF and 75oF. A geothermal heat pump gathers heat from deep in the soil or from deep in a well or lake. With a geothermal heat pump you can gather heat in the winter much more efficiently than you can from the air for the simple reason that there is much more heat available. You can air condition much more efficiently too. The efficiency of an air conditioning system depends on the outdoor temperature. The hotter it is outside, the harder your air conditioner has to work to pump heat from your house to the outside. Since the temperature deep in the ground is not so hot, it is very easy to pump heat from your house into the ground. The bottom line is that a geothermal heat pump costs very much less to operate. In fact the year round energy costs to heat and cool are very low. But, as with all good things, there is a catch. The installation cost is very high. This is why we don t see many geothermal heat pumps. Maintenance Do not operate an air to air heat pump in cooling mode if the temperature is below 65oF outside. Do not operate an air to air heat pump in heating mode if the temperature outside is above 65oF. In other words, operate it only in the mode appropriate for the season otherwise damage to the system may result. Have the system inspected, cleaned and adjusted annually. Change filters at the air handler regularly to protect the equipment.

29 The Central Humidifier A Cold Climate Balancing Act Indoor humidity levels can get uncomfortably low during cold winter months. Dry air causes: dry skin, lips, throat and nose shrinkage and cracking of woodwork, such as moldings, door frames and hardwood floors damage to musical instruments, such as pianos, guitars and violins A central humidifier automatically adds moisture to the air. What Is Humidity? Humidity refers to the amount of moisture in the air. The measure of humidity is called relative humidity, and designates the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount possible before the air becomes saturated. This maximum moisture count is also relative to air temperature the hotter the air the more moisture it can support. If the relative humidity in your home is 50%, and you decrease the indoor air temperature, the relative humidity increases. Ideal Relative Humidity in Your Home Most people require a humidity level between 45% and 55% for general comfort. For woodwork and furniture, 40% - 45% is ideal. Unfortunately, these levels cannot be maintained throughout the winter without causing problems. The temperature in a home is not uniform. For example, some surfaces in your home, such as windows, doors, walls and ceilings are colder than the average indoor air temperature. Your average indoor relative humidity Outdoor Temp Humidistat (R.H.) may be 50%, but the relative humidity immediately next to a window pane may be over 100%. The result is condensation, which may even freeze, creating frost. Condensation can lead to mold, mildew and musty smells. 40 / 4 (F/C) 32 / 0 (F/C) 20 / -7 (F/C) 45 % 40 % 35 % Believe it or not, the ideal relative humidity inside your home in the middle of the winter depends on the outdoor temperature! While every house is different, the chart shows the ideal indoor relative humidity. If your house is tightly sealed, the humidity 10 / -12 (F/C) 0 / -18 (F/C) 30 % 25 % you generate in the home from cooking, showers and even breathing may be sufficient.

30 Types of Humidifiers The following are the two most common humidifiers: Drum type: a drum type has a rotating sponge surface that picks up water from a tray as it turns. Air from the central heating system blows through the sponge, evaporating water into the air stream. An automatic humidistat regulates the relative humidity. The drum type requires a lot of care and maintenance. Flow-through or trickle humidifier: considered a much higher quality unit than the drum type, trickle humidifiers allow fresh water to trickle into the top of an aluminum panel. Air blows through the panel and water evaporates into the air stream. Excess water exits the panel into a drain tube. Operation First check the temperature outside. Then set the humidistat according to the chart on the humidistat. Most people set an average level for the winter, usually about 30%, to avoid resetting it every day. More advanced systems have an outdoor thermometer that automatically adjusts the relative humidity to the ideal level inside. Maintaining your Humidifier Cleaning drum type: remove and clean the drum and tray once a month, and replace the drum sponge every year. In some cases you cannot remove the tray without removing the float assembly first. Make sure you shut off the water supply! Check water level: verify that the sponge makes contact with the water in the tray. If not, the level needs adjustment. Check float assembly for scale: scale on the float valve could cause a leakage problem. Clean or replace as necessary. Cleaning flow-through type: simply replace the water panel once per year. Look for leaks in both types: evidence of rust and scale are sure indicators of leaks. Look inside the humidifier. Check the water supply line. A common leakage point is at the shut-off valve. In the summer: turn off the water supply and drain the tray (drum type). If you have air conditioning, block the flow of air through the humidifier during the summer. You should find a sheet metal baffle or a knob directly on the humidifier to block the air flow.

31 Electric Heat Residential electric heating systems are clean, nearly one-hundred percent efficient, and easy to maintain. Unfortunately, electric heat tends to be the most expensive heating. Generating electric heat involves inefficiencies and energy losses during conversion from fossil fuel to heat energy, from heat energy to mechanical energy, from mechanical energy to electrical energy, and finally from the transmission of electricity to your home. In the end, it would be cheaper and more efficient to burn the fossil fuel directly in your home. Except for one mitigating factor: delivery of the fossil fuel to the home comes at a cost. In remote areas where the delivery costs of fossil fuel are high, electric heat may be a less expensive option. Heat Pumps An electric heat pump does not generate heat, it just collects heat from outside and moves it inside. When you heat your house with electricity, you convert one unit of electrical energy into one unit of heat energy. With a heat pump, you might then use one unit of electrical energy to collect two units of heat energy, giving you one-hundred percent more heat than you paid for! The difficult part to understand is how you can collect heat from outside when it is cold outside. At about the freezing point, the electricity cost to pump heat into your house becomes more than the cost to generate heat directly. For this reason, heat pumps are not used in very cold climates. You see them more in places such as North Carolina. Electric Furnace An electric furnace is a simple and relatively trouble-free system. It has no heat exchanger, no gas valve, no igniters and no chimney. It simply has an electric resistance coil placed directly in the air stream. A blower moves air through the furnace and circulates the warmed air throughout the house. Air conditioning can be added directly to the furnace, using the same ducting that circulates heat to also circulate cool air.

32 Electric Baseboard Heaters Electric baseboard heaters provide heat exactly where you need it, as you need it. Baseboards allow you to set back the thermostats in the rooms you are not inhabiting, saving a significant amount of energy. Unfortunately, you cannot add air conditioning to this system without adding an independent ducting system. Electric Hot Water Boiler An electric hot water boiler uses electric elements to heat water. The heated water is pumped into radiators or convectors throughout the house. In terms of size, electric hot water boilers are small and inconspicuous. Electric Radiant Heat Today, under-floor electric radiant heat is popular in bathrooms and kitchens, usually added as accent heating rather than as the primary source of heat. In the late 80s and early 90s, whole house electric radiant heating became popular. Flexible radiant panels were installed under the drywall in the ceiling, creating a comfortable temperature without revealing the heat source. These systems, however, had problems that led to a recall and their ultimate termination. Since then, whole house electric radiant heat has not been popular. Electric Thermal Storage In some geographic areas, suppliers bill electricity at variable rates, higher during peak demand time and lower during low demand. This system encourages consumers to cut back on energy use when the generating station is maxed out. Electric thermal storage heating systems use energy during off peak hours to heat a thermal mass, such as blocks of ceramic, located inside the home heating unit. During peak hours when electricity is most expensive, the electric heat shuts off but heat continues to ooze out of the ceramic, thus heating the home. Even though electricity is more expensive than other heating options, you can offset the higher energy cost with good insulation. Most building codes require much higher insulation levels if the home is to be heated with electricity. The insulation is the builder s problem and the energy savings are the home owner s benefit. And an electric heating system will require few repairs over its life.

33 Central Air Conditioning Central air conditioning systems are a luxury in some areas of North America and a basic necessity in others. Whatever your need may be, it is in your best interest to understand how to choose the right system for your home, and how to maintain it for optional use. Central air conditioning systems have become more sophisticated and more efficient in the last few years. The most common system is called a split system because part of it (the condenser) is located outside the house, and part (the evaporator) is located inside. The evaporator is mounted inside an air handler, a blower that circulates air throughout the house. For homes with forced-air heating, the furnace acts as the air handler. In these cases, the evaporator is simply mounted on top of the furnace. SEER SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and designates the efficiency rating of air conditioning systems. A 14 SEER air conditioner is more efficient than a 10 SEER unit. As of January 2006, manufacturers are no longer permitted to manufacture air conditioning systems with a SEER less than 13. Prior to this date, the minimum SEER was 10. The new 13 SEER regulation does, however, create challenges for some home owners. The system itself is physically much larger than older systems. Since the condenser sits outside, increased size does not matter here, but the evaporator is also much larger on the new systems. If you are replacing a failed older system, the new evaporator may not fit into the old air handler, or even into the space it once occupied. The ducting can be modified to fit the new evaporator, but in some cases the entire air handler (or furnace) may have to be replaced. Other work-arounds also exist, but they are beyond the scope this discussion.

34 What Are the Capacity Issues? Proper sizing or capacity of a system is important. Installers traditionally err on the side of over sizing a system to avoid client complaints on the hottest day of the summer, such as the system not keeping up with the heat, or the system running continuously. A larger-than-necessary air conditioning system will not function optimally. It will cool the house off quickly and then shut off. These short on-cycles are not good for two reasons: Most air conditioning systems take about seven minutes of operation to reach peak efficiency. An oversized system will operate at a fraction of its rated efficiency, costing more to operate than it should. The central air conditioning system also dehumidifies the home. If the on-cycles are short, you get little dehumidification. The result is a cold and clammy home. Choosing the appropriate capacity for the air conditioning system requires a skilled and experienced air conditioning contractor that can do a heat gain calculation for your home. Some of the newest and most expensive systems available are capable of operating at two different capacities. The system operates on low most of the time, with long on-cycles that generate lots of dehumidification. If the system cannot keep up with a heat gain, it switches into a higher gear. Maintenance A well-maintained air conditioning system will last longer and cool better than a neglected system. Clean or replace the filter in the air handler regularly, not just for clean air, but also because the filter protects your heating and cooling equipment. Dust can clog the evaporator coil, reducing the heat transfer, efficiency, and life of the system. Trim vegetation away from the condenser for free air flow. Do not enclose the condenser with trellis or anything else that might block air flow. Have the system serviced regularly. Servicing is inexpensive and will increase the life and efficiency of the system. A technician typically cleans the condenser coils and checks the refrigerant pressures, adjusting the refrigerant charge if needed. Like any system in your home, a central air conditioner will work at its peak efficiency and performance when it is properly fitted for capacity and regularly maintained.

35 Fireplaces & Wood Stoves There is nothing like the ambiance of a wood burning fireplace. But like any heating system, wood burning fireplaces require maintenance to ensure safe and efficient operation. They should be inspected and cleaned every year. This process is not a do-it-yourself job. Most chimney flues are not readily visible when you look up the chimney. Often, you cannot properly inspect the flue until it has been cleaned. It is important to get your chimney and flue cleaned and inspected every year for a number of reasons, but the two main reasons involve safety. Simply put, get the flue cleaned to avoid a chimney fire. A chimney fire occurs when the combustible deposits in the chimney (creosote) ignite. A chimney fire involves flames shooting out the chimney top, and air roaring up the chimney to feed the fire. It is as loud as it is dangerous! A chimney sweep can remove the creosote deposits that potentially cause fires. Second, have the flue inspected. A flue liner in good condition will help protect your home if you do have a chimney fire. An inspection of the chimney flue is not part of a home inspection. Call a trained technician to clean and inspect your chimney flue. Old Unlined Chimneys Fireplaces in old homes may not have clay flue liners. It is particularly important to seek the advice of an expert for these old chimneys. Unlined brick chimneys come in two varieties: single thickness (four inches of brick), and double thickness (eight inches of brick). There is little debate that a four inch thick, unlined chimney is not acceptable. This chimney should either have a liner added, or the fireplace decommissioned. For chimneys with eight inch brick, conflicting opinions abound. Some believe these are safe as long as the brick and mortar are in good condition, and the flue is cleaned regularly. Others believe that double brick flues should also have a liner added. Consider hiring an expert who does not offer a chimney lining service. This will give you an unbiased expert opinion on whether a liner is needed.

36 Glass Doors Some fireplaces have glass doors across their opening. The glass doors reduce heat loss when the fireplace is not running. Most glass door systems added to an existing fireplace are not designed to be closed when the fire is lit. On the other hand, some high efficiency zero-clearance fireplaces are designed for operation with the doors closed. If you are not sure, ask the technician who cleans and inspects your fireplace and flue. Wood Stove A wood stove is more efficient than a fireplace. Modern wood stoves burn wood cleanly and efficiently. Like fireplaces, the wood stove must be cleaned and inspected annually. An expert will check the flue, the hearth and the clearance to combustibles. The clearance to combustibles information is listed on the data tag on the wood stove. Zero-Clearance Today, a fireplace can be added to almost any home. A zero-clearance fireplace can be installed directly against an existing wall and supported by the existing floor (a foundation is not required). A good installer is a must for this job. Tips for All Wood Burning Fireplaces Do not burn trash. Do not burn pressure-treated or painted wood. Burn seasoned hardwood. Softwood will cause creosote to build up more quickly. Load the logs near the back of the fireplace. Use the spark screen. Make sure smoke and CO detectors are functioning. Have the chimney and fireplace or wood stove inspected and cleaned annually.

37 Founda on Cracks There are no perfect houses. Whether you have a new home or one that s a hundred years old, houses have cracks. Houses shi and se le into posi on a er construc on. Houses will have cracks in either the cosme c finishes or structural components. Most of these cracks have no structural significance. Some are significant and home inspectors use every technique to help their clients figure out the difference. Shrinkage Cracks A newly poured, concrete founda on may contain small cracks because concrete shrinks as it cures. Fortunately, a shrinkage crack in a founda on wall is not structurally significant. Here s how to recognize a shrinkage crack in a poured, concrete founda on: The crack will be small, less than 1/8th of an inch wide. The crack will be ver cal. The crack will not extend up through the structure. The crack is in the founda on wall only. Shrinkage cracks usually occur in the middle third of the length of the founda on wall. If the crack is located towards the end of the length of the founda on wall, it s probably not a shrinkage crack. Horizontal Cracks In A Basement Founda on Wall This discussion relates to cracks in the concrete founda on wall for a house with a basement. This is not relevant to slabs on grade or to cracks in walls above grade level. A horizontal crack in a founda on wall, below grade, which runs the length of the basement, is likely a sign that the founda on is failing under the weight of the surrounding soil. The soil outside the founda on wall exerts an enormous pressure on the founda on wall. Founda on walls are designed to be strong enough to resist this load. Occasionally, unan cipated, addi onal loads exert pressure and the founda on begins to fail, resul ng in a horizontal crack in the founda on wall.

38 Se lement Cracks Founda on se lement cracks are ver cal, extending up through the structure. For a brick home, you may see cracks following the mortar joints in the brick wall. In most cases, the se lement crack itself has no structural significance. Rather, we are concerned that the house could con nue to se le over me. Most se lement cracks are the result of short-term se lement. Ongoing se lement is unlikely and uncommon. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to iden fy ongoing se lement from a one- me visit to the home. Since mul ple visits to the home over a few years is not compa ble with a real estate transac on, we have to use our experience to read the cracks and take an educated guess as to whether ongoing se lement is likely. Se lement crack size: A larger se lement crack is more likely to be due to ongoing movement than a smaller se lement crack. While there are no hard and fast rules, a se lement crack or series of se lement cracks that have a sum total opening of less than 1/4 inch are probably not due to ongoing se lement. Direc on of movement: A typical se lement crack is ver cal, where the crack opens up. The bumps and crevices line up and fit together like the pieces of a puzzle. If the crack face has moved in any other direc ons, such as a shear crack, the quarter-inch rule described above does not apply. This can be a significant structural concern. Repaired and re-cracked: A se lement crack that has been repaired and has re-cracked (not just a hairline crack) also could indicate ongoing movement.

39 Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter A ground fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI, is an inexpensive electrical safety device that can protect you and your family members from a serious electric shock. Have you ever had an electric shock? While it is an unpleasant experience, it is not usually fatal. However, given the right conditions, the same shock could be fatal! If your body makes a solid connection to the ground, the shock could easily kill you. Here are two examples of a solid ground connection: If you are physically standing or touching the ground outside If you touch something conductive, such as any part of the plumbing system in your house, that is also touching the ground outside In other words, if you decide to operate your hedge trimmer in your bare feet and you get a shock, you may not survive it. How Can a GFCI Help? A GFCI is a special electrical outlet that prevents electric shocks in situations such as the ones described above. The GFCI monitors the electrical current leaving from and returning to the outlet. The current leaving the outlet should be the same amount as the returning current. If the current returning is less than that which leaves, the missing current could be passing through somebody s body to the ground. The GFCI detects the mismatch and shuts off the electrical outlet in a split second. Where Should GFCI Outlets Be Located? GFCI outlets should be installed in any area that presents a risk of an electric shock withg a direct path to the ground. In other words, anywhere you might directly touch the ground outside or anywhere where you might touch a part of the plumbing system. Some smart GFCIs locations are: Exterior outlets Kitchen counter outlets (not common in Canada) Bathroom outlets Garage outlets Outlets in unfinished basements

40 This is not a complete list. Areas near swimming pools, hot tubs, and so on should also include this type of outlet. GFCIs are not perfect, however, and have been known to nuisance trip when connected to certain types of electrical equipment. For this reason, exceptions to the suggested (or required) locations for GFCIs exist. For example, a regular outlet would be a better choice for a freezer in your garage since the potential for nuisance tripping of the GCFI is high and might go undetected for days, leading to spoiled food in the shut-off freezer. Remote GFCI Several electrical outlets usually connect to a single circuit in an average home. A single GFCI outlet will protect all of the outlets in the circuit, even if the other outlets are not GFCIs. But the GFCI outlet must be the first outlet in the string in order for it to properly protect the other outlets, and, of course the connections have to be properly made. Remote GFCIs sometimes cause confusion for home owners in the following ways: A home owner thinks the bathroom does not have a GFCI because the outlet looks like a standard one. The standard outlet under the protection of a remote GFCI should have a sticker indicating its GFCI protection. The problem is, the sticker does not stick forever. A Suburban Consultants inspector can test this for you. A standard outlet that does not appear to work in a bathroom or kitchen may actually be attached to a remote GFCI outlet that has nuisance tripped. Before calling an electrician, check the GFCI outlets in other bathrooms and in other locations around the house. Testing GFCIs are easy to test and should be tested every month. Simply press the test button on the outlet. You should hear a pop as the reset button pops out a little. To reset, just press the reset button. If the GFCI fails to trip, or if you are unable to reset it, it is time for an electrician to replace it. Special breakers also provide GFCI protection to the entire circuit. These breakers can be installed instead of GFCI outlets. The GFCI breaker should also be tested monthly. You will recognize this breaker from the test and reset button. GFCIs can help prevent injury and death from electric shock. It is a small device worth having to ensure the safety of your family members.

41 Electrical Outlet Problems The electrical outlet not only provides vital access to the electrical current that makes your house hum, but it also warrants deeper consideration for reasons of comfort and safety. Our inspectors have seen it all when it comes to incorrect outlet wiring, a safety hazard if left unattended. But before we discuss safety measures, let s start with a quick tour of this component and its mate, the plug. Have you ever wondered why your electrical outlets have holes of different sizes and shape? To accommodate the plug is the obvious answer. But there is more to this relationship than meets the eye. Hidden behind the outlet is a series of wires that must be properly connected for the outlet s safe functioning. On a modern electrical outlet that accommodates a three-pronged plug, each hole serves a specific purpose: the round hole is for the ground pin on the plug; the small slot takes the small blade on the plug and connects to the hot wire in the outlet (the wire that can cause a shock); the large slot takes the large blade and connects to the neutral wire in the outlet. Specific wires have to be connected to the proper terminals for an outlet s safe function. Correct installation is so important that inspectors spot-check outlets with an outlet tester during every inspection. Reverse Polarity The large slot and small slot on an electrical outlet, and the different-sized blades on a plug, designate their respective polarizations, and ensure that the plug goes in the outlet only one way, a safety feature that reduces the chances of shock. For instance, a light-bulb socket has exposed electrical connections, the threads being the most exposed part. But polarized socket threads are attached to the neutral wire to prevent someone from getting a shock when changing a light bulb. If the electrical outlet itself is mis-wired with reverse polarity, the lamp socket threads described above will become hot. If you touch the threads in the socket, or on the bulb as you screw it into the socket, you may get a shock.

42 Outlet Not Grounded Often inspectors discover outlets with the circular ground holes but with no ground wire connected. In older homes, sometimes the cable leading to the outlet does not have a ground wire, yet the outlet has nonetheless been upgraded to a modern grounded type. Some plug-in electrical devices need this ground connection for their built-in safety features. If the outlet appears to be grounded but is not, the device s safety features will not work. Old Outlets In older homes some outlets may have no ground slot at all. This does not represent a defect or safety concern, but you will not be able to plug in an electrical appliance that has a ground pin on the plug. Today, most plug-in appliances are not the grounded style and, therefore, do not use or have a ground pin on the plug because they are a double insulated design. In these cases, the old ungrounded outlet will work fine. If you think it might be a good idea to simply cut off the ground pin to accommodate an outlet without a ground hole, think again. This procedure is doubly unsafe because it not only bypasses the grounding safety feature, but also it bypasses the polarizing feature since a de-pinned plug can be inserted into the outlet either way. Easy to Fix An electrician can fix these outlet problems. Though your outlets may appear as minor considerations in the grand scheme of your home, your understanding and the safe installation of your outlets can prevent serious safety hazards.

43 Railings and Guards The CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Injury Prevention) estimates that 40% of all unintentional deaths around the home are due to falls. One in five injuries that require a visit to an emergency room is due to a fall. Over 50% of these are falls that happen at home and most of these are falls from stairs and steps. Railings and guards are designed to keep people from falling and injuring themselves. There is no doubt that properly installed railings and guards could help to improve these statistics. A railing is something to grip onto when you go up and down a staircase. A guard is something that keeps you from falling off a staircase, deck or balcony. On a staircase, sometimes the railing doubles as a guard. Many homes have missing or inappropriate railings and guards. One reason is that older homes did not have the same requirements as we do today. Home owners are not required to upgrade their homes to modern safety standards. If we had to upgrade, everybody would have to renovate their home every year just to keep up. Suburban Consultants home inspectors inspect your home with this in mind. We don t believe people should have to renovate their homes every year. Your railings and guards may be perfectly adequate for the time they were installed. At the same time we are concerned for your safety. We believe the solution is to provide you with information on common safety issues and let you decide if you would like to address the issue as a discretionary upgrade. Here are a few common issues: Missing railings: Sometimes a staircase has no railing at all, either because the previous owner removed it to make more room to move furniture up the stairs or because it was never installed in the first place. Ideally there should be a railing on any staircase that has more than two or three risers. The actual requirement depends on your area and when the home was built.

44 Missing guard: A common scenario is there is no guard on an open staircase to a basement. In many areas, a guard was not required as long as there was a wall on one side and the basement unfinished. Today, many home owners have turned their basement into a recreation area or a playroom for children. The open staircase is now a danger. Ideally, a railing and guard should be added. Guard too low: In some cases, an old home will have very low guards on staircases or balconies. This was the design at the time the home was built. Ideally, a guard should be 36 inches high, unless it s part of a staircase handrail in which case 34 inches would be ideal. In many areas, if the drop is six feet or more, a guard of 42 inches is required. Railing or guard has large openings: Railings and guards may have vertical spindles (called balusters). These keep people from falling through. In some cases, the spacing between the spindles is so wide that a child could fall through. The requirements have changed over the years and also vary from area to area but most authorities believe that a maximum opening of four inches offers the best protection. Other things to look for: Guards that incorporate climbable elements are not ideal. An example is a bench built into a guard or horizontal slats between the spindles on the guard. The concern is that children can climb them and fall over. Appropriate lighting for a staircase is a must. A dark stairwell is dangerous. That s all there is to it. Uneven stairs and stairs with non-uniform riser height are dangerous.

45 SKYLIGHTS People are drawn to areas with natural light. What s more, there is something special about natural light from above, bringing the sky indoors. Skylights can make a dark room bright, provide ven la on and add architectural appeal. As Ligh ng A skylight can be a problem solver, bringing natural light where it would be difficult or impossible to add a window. Here are some examples - Inside wall area of a duplex (semi-detached) or a home on a zero lot line. Natural illumina on of a stairway. Natural ligh ng where privacy is required such as a bathroom. Small lots where windows would be looking directly onto a neighbors home. Where an a c has been renovated into a living area. Some skylights are manufactured to sa sfy a c egress requirements of building codes as well. As Ven la on Skylights can be of fixed design or openable. The openable type can provide natural ven la on. There are also fixed skylights that have a ven ng op on. In these, there is a vent flap that can be opened. Openable skylights are either manual or automa c. Light Sha Skylights on cathedral ceilings bring light directly through the roof plane into the living area. Skylights on homes with an a c are a li le more complicated. You have to punch a hole through a large a c area. The hole through the a c area is called the light sha. The simplest light sha is a channel that extends straight down from the skylight above. This is the easiest to frame and interferes the least with exis ng framing. It s also the least interes ng architecturally and brings in the least amount of light. A more interes ng design is to flare the light sha out to bring in more light. The flare can be a simple one sided flare or a more complicated two sided or even four sided flare. The more sides you flare, the more complicated and disrup ve the framing. Heat One of the most important things to consider for warm climates is that skylights will add considerably to the heat gain and thus the air condi oning load. In hot climates, care should be given to the orienta on of the skylight. For example, south or west facing skylights have a much greater heat gain than north or east facing skylights. In addi on to orienta on, choosing the correct skylight for your climate helps.

46 A skylight that is ideal in one climate may be completely wrong in another. There are many op ons available such as low-e glass and nted or reflec ve glass. Your installer should be familiar with the different op ons and the ra ngs on the skylight. There are several different parameters that are rated on skylights. For warm climates the SHGC or Solar Heat Gain Coefficient is one of the most important. SHGC represents how much heat from the sun penetrates the skylight. A low tech solu on to heat gain is a shade for the skylight. Different orienta ons have different light characteris cs as well. North facing skylights have steady light levels throughout the day and the light is very so. East and west facing skylights have varying light levels throughout the day. South facing skylights give the most light but the light is also very hot and harsh. Installa on When a roof leaks, it leaks at a roof penetra on. It does not leak in the middle of a field of shingles or les. A skylight is a big roof penetra on. As such, a skylight has the poten al to leak. The difference between a skylight that leaks and one that does not is a good installer. A good installer knows how to pick a good skylight and knows how to flash the skylight properly so it sheds water. There two types of skylights commonly used for residen al homes. Skylights that have to be mounted on a curb and a skylight that comes with its own curb (integrated curb). The best is the type that mounts on a curb. A curb mount skylight sits up above the roof plane on a wood frame. A curb mount skylight gets flashed just like a chimney. It gets step flashing, head and base flashing. The illustra on below shows a curb mount and flashing for a skylight. All that is required is to set the skylight on the curb. Peel and s ck ice and water shield have made skylight installa ons much more reliable. Most installers use ice and water shield to compliment the skylight flashing for a good water- ght installa on in any weather condi ons. Signs of Trouble Once a skylight is installed, it may be difficult to recognize if the installa on was done properly. Here are a few signs that there could be trouble - Mas c or sealant (roofing tar) has been used to seal the skylight. Good skylight flashing should shed water and does not require mas c. Mas c on the flashing is a sign of trouble. If a skylight is installed too close to a plumbing stack or some other roof penetra on or intersec- on (less than 18 inches) it is very difficult to flash properly. Room is needed around the skylight for the flashing components. Moisture or stains on the inside could be evidence of a leak or could be condensa on. Some mes it s hard to determine what you are looking at. This illustra on shows a curb mount for a skylight, shown without the skylight for clarity. You can see the step flashing and the apron flashing.

47 Smoke Alarms Smoke alarms are an incredible success story. Once the concept took hold in the 1970s, it wasn t long before the fire death rate was cut in half! Now, more than three decades later, most homes have at least one smoke alarm but we s ll have a problem the smoke alarms aren t working! In one quarter of the homes with smoke alarms, the smoke alarms don t work. The cause is missing, dead or disconnected ba eries (Na onal Fire Protec on Associa on). Here we would like to encourage you to pay more a en on to your smoke alarms. The two key goals of smoke alarms are To wake you up. You can t sense smoke and flame when you are asleep. Early warning. The sooner you know about a fire the be er the possible outcome Placement of Smoke Alarms While you should consult the instruc ons provided with the smoke alarm, here are some general guidelines. We do not address local bylaws and codes here. There should be at least one smoke alarm per floor including the basement. Smoke alarms should be placed outside every separate sleeping area. Many authori es suggest an alarm inside each bedroom as well. The alarm can be placed on the ceiling or high up on the wall. If the alarm is on the ceiling, it should be at least four inches away from any walls. If the alarm is on the wall, it should be at least four inches but not more than twelve inches from the ceiling. Peaked ceilings have stagnant air at the top. The smoke alarm should be three feet from the highest point. Do not place the smoke alarm where it could be affected by dra s such as next to a window or air vent.

48 Maintaining Test the smoke alarm once per month by pressing the test bu on un l the alarm sounds then release the bu on. If the smoke alarm is ba ery operated, replace the ba ery every year. If you hear a chirping sound from the smoke alarm, change the ba eries. Dust or vacuum the surface periodically. Replace the en re unit if it is older than 10 years or if you are not sure how old it is. Print the installa on date inside the cover. False Alarms Nuisance tripping of your smoke alarm is bound to happen occasionally. Unfortunately, many people remove the ba ery to silence the alarm with the good inten on of replacing it a er the smoke clears. Here are some be er ways to deal with nuisance tripping: Use an alarm with a hush bu on. Move the smoke alarm a li le further from the kitchen area. Try a different type of alarm. Some experts say that a photoelectric smoke alarm is a li le less sensi ve to common causes of false alarms. Hard Wired Alarms Many homes today have smoke alarms wired right into the household electrical system. In addi on, some homes have interconnected smoke alarms. This means if one alarm in the home sounds then the others sound as well. Escape Plan Smoke and flame can spread quickly so you need to react quickly. It is vital that you and your family know what to do on hearing a smoke alarm. You should plan an escape route from every area of the home and iden- fy a safe area to meet outside the home. You should rehearse the escape plan with your family. Walk through and iden fy obstacles that may slow you down such as windows that are jammed or exits that are crowded with storage etc.

49 Carbon Monoxide Carbon monoxide, or CO, a byproduct of incomplete combus on of fossil fuels, is a colorless, odorless gas. Breathing CO reduces the blood s ability to carry oxygen. In severe cases, CO can cause death. Defec ve or malfunc oning fossil fuel appliances, or inappropriate use of appliances that burn fossil fuel close to or inside the home can pose a serious health hazard. Here are a few examples of dangerous opera ons: Running an automobile or gas lawn mower inside the garage Opera ng a barbeque inside the home A gas or oil burning furnace with a blockage in the chimney Kerosene space heaters Opera ng a generator in the home during a power failure Symptoms of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include headache, dizziness, nausea, vomi ng, weakness, chest pain, confusion, and loss of consciousness. Carbon monoxide poisoning can lead to death. Low level poisoning may go unno ced because it may be mistaken for the flu. Carbon Monoxide Detector You should have at least one carbon monoxide detector in your home. In some geographic areas, a CO detector is required by law. The CO detector should be placed where you can hear it if it goes off when you are asleep. A CO detector does not have to be placed on the ceiling, since unlike smoke, CO has approximately the same weight as air so it mixes uniformly throughout the room rather than floa ng up to the ceiling.

50 To avoid false alarms, do not install the detector next to hea ng and cooking appliances, vents, flues, or chimneys. Make sure you read and follow the opera ng, placement, and tes ng instruc ons that come with the detector. If the carbon monoxide detector alarms, take it seriously. Avoiding CO Poisoning Have your hea ng systems serviced every year by a qualified technician. Have your fireplace chimney cleaned and inspected every year. Install at least one CO detector in your home and replace the ba eries twice per year. Open the garage door prior to star ng your car; drive the car out promptly. Do not leave it idling in the garage. Do not use a remote car starter when the car is in the garage. Do not use a charcoal or propane barbeque in the home.

51 Attic Thermal Insulation The attic accounts for a large percentage of a house s heat loss and heat gain. Attic insulation reduces heat loss in the cold months, and prevents heat build up in hotter months, making it a priority for insulation. In new construction, insulation levels for the attic are higher than all other areas. In an old home, the attic is the first place for insulation upgrades. The attic is comparatively easy to insulate since it usually presents no space constraint, making it easy to add a lot of insulation. Ventilation Critical to a healthy attic is good ventilation, with airflow circulating into and out of the attic. Circulation helps stabilize the attic temperature and remove moisture. Ideal ventilation has vent openings low on the roof and vents high on the roof to create draft. Air will flow naturally in the low openings and out the high openings. This is usually accomplished with soffit vents at the eaves and roof top vents (mushroom vents) on top of the roof. There are many other possibilities as well. Many homes in which the insulation has been upgraded does not have appropriate ventilation either because the insulation contractor did not add vents when insulating or because insulation now covers the soffit vents, restricting the air flow. To solve this problem, baffles can be added to create an air channel past the insulation at the soffit. Air can then flow freely into the attic and then out the vents on the roof top. If additional roof top vents are needed, it is a very easy and inexpensive upgrade. Air Leakage The thought behind current building science recognizes that while attic ventilation is important, equally important is sealing air leaks from the rest of the house to the attic, especially in cold climates. In a typical home, recessed light fixtures, bathroom vents, plumbing stacks, chimneys and wall cavities present numerous potential air leakage paths to the attic. Air leakage from the house causes many problems including condensation,, mildew and in cold climates ice dams. Ducting that runs through the attic should be well sealed and properly insulated. There is no point heating and cooling your attic.

52 Do Not Disturb the Insulation It s best not to disturb the insulation in the attic. Some attics have vermiculite insulation. Most vermiculite insulation contains small amounts of asbestos. Disturbing the insulation can cause a cloud of asbestos, a substance it is best to avoid or to which exposure should be limited. In some cases, the vermiculite lies under a layer of a different type of insulation. Visually, it may look like you have ten inches of fiberglass when, in fact, you may actually have four inches of vermiculite and six inches of fiberglass. If you have to disturb the insulation, check what kind of insulation you have first and take appropriate precautions. A standard dust mask is not good enough for asbestos. Upgrading Attic Insulation If you are upgrading your attic insulation, make sure you hire a contractor who is knowledgeable about the techniques and codes for your area. Good contractors will asses the insulation type and condition, as well as air leakage from the house and ventilation.

53 Damp Basements Damp basements are one of the most common problems that plague homes. This includes old houses and new houses. Many damp basements can be improved simply and inexpensively. It is worth investigating a little yourself before calling in a basement expert. Surface Water The most common cause of damp basements is improper handling of exterior surface water (rain water). Surface water that saturates the soil immediately next to the home can make its way into the basement. One good way to investigate this possibility is by walking around the home during a rain storm. Check the following Gutters should be clear and drain properly. Overflowing gutters are a common problem. Downspouts should not flood water next to the house. Add an extension (leader) to discharge the water well away from the home. Downspouts that discharge below grade should be checked very carefully. Make sure water is not leaking into the soil or backing up into the basement through the floor drain. In some cases it is prudent to disconnect downspouts that discharge below grade and redirect the water away from the house instead. Ask your inspector for advice on this. Land around the house should shed water away from the house for at least six feet. Condensation Condensation is a common problem in basements. Condensation looks and smells like basement leakage. It is sometimes difficult to distinguish between the two. There are a few things you can do to improve the situation. First, try reducing the sources of interior moisture. If there is a shower or bathtub in the basement that is used regularly, make sure there is an exhaust vent and that it gets used. Verify that the clothes dryer vents outside. If the basement is clearly colder than the rest of the house, warm it up. This will reduce the relative humidity and reduce the potential for condensation.

54 One of the most common scenarios is an air conditioned home where the basement is colder than the rest of the house. These basements often smell and feel damp. Reduce the flow of cold air to the basement by closing air registers. Consult with a Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) technician to investigate the possibility of adding return air registers to the basement. If you see moisture on the surface of the foundation, you can test if it is water seeping through the foundation or if it is condensation. Tape a piece of clear plastic sheet, about one foot square, tight to the foundation wall. After a few days, see if moisture has formed on top or underneath the plastic. If the moisture is on top, you have a condensation problem. Dehumidifiers Dehumidifiers sure do work to reduce the moisture in the air and thus tend to dry the basement. However, dehumidifiers use a great deal of energy. Try to deal with the source of the moisture first. Many inspectors have reported seeing many homes with clothes dryers venting gallons of moisture into the basement with dehumidifiers running continuously along side. This is a huge waste of energy! Basement Floor Drain Basement floor drains should have water in them. This water is a vapor lock that prevents sewer smells from getting into the house. If your basement has a musty smell, check the floor drains. If the drain is dry, pour a bucket of water down the drain. Check it again an hour later to see if the drain keeps its prime. While some basement dampness problems can be solved or at least improved with a little thoughtful sleuthing, some dampness problems are more serious. In these situations, an expert will be required.

55 SPOTLIGHT ON DECKS For many, a deck is an extension of the home. It brings indoor life to the great outdoors. With a li le care, a deck can last for many years. Neglected, it can become an eyesore or worse, unsafe! This spotlight on decks provides a few ps to help keep your deck safe and in good condi on. Permit Is a permit required to build a deck? Most municipali es require a permit to build a deck. The permit process helps to ensure that the deck is safe and sound through verifica on of the design and inspec ons of the deck at various phases of construc on. Unfortunately, many decks get built without a permit. The result is that many decks are poorly constructed and some are unsafe. Deck Materials Pressure Treated Wood: The most common deck building material is pressure treated wood. Properly maintained, a pressure treated wood deck can last 20 years. Pressure treated wood comes in construc on grade and premium grade. Construc on grade pressure treated wood tends to warp and split as it dries and shrinks. This is fine for the deck structure but the decking calls for a higher quality material. Premium pressure treated deck boards are cut from be er stock and are treated and dried to a higher standard. The deck boards are more dimensionally stable and look be er both immediately a er construc on and in the long term. Cedar: Cedar is a premium deck building material with a rich look and feel. It is more expensive than pressure treated wood but it has many desirable proper es. It is naturally more dimensionally stable than pressure treated wood so it does not shrink and split. A well maintained cedar deck can last 20 years. Synthe c: Synthe c decking is the most expensive decking material but it requires li le to no maintenance beyond cleaning and should last many years. There are many different types and styles. For example, Weyerheuser makes a product called ChoiceDeck that is made of wood fibers encapsulated in polyethylene.

56 Wood Sealer The secret to a deck that looks good over the years is wood sealer. Unsealed wood will absorb water and expand and then dry out and shrink. Over me the wood splits and deteriorates. Here s a test to see if your deck needs sealer. Pour a cup of water onto the wood, if the water beads up and runs off, the deck is in good shape. Otherwise it needs sealer. Guard Rails Guard rails keep you safe on your deck. The point is to keep people including young children from falling from the deck. Guards are required for decks higher than 30 inches from the ground. In some municipali es, a guard is required for a deck that is 24 inches from the ground. The specifics of a quality guard-rail are spelled out in local building codes but this list will get you started - The guard rail should be 36 inches high (a deck over 6 feet high requires a 42 inch guard) There should be no openings larger than 4 inches so nobody can fall through It should be strong enough to hold a person that falls heavily into the rail or balusters It should not be easily climbable - no footholds. Deck Collapse Except for hurricanes and tornadoes, more injuries may be connected to deck failures than all other wood building components and loading cases combined. - Wood Materials and Engineering Laboratory at Washington State University. Many decks fail because they are old, worn and ro ed. Others fail because they were not built properly in the first place. The most cri cal connec on is the deck to house connec on. The illustra on below shows a good deck to house connec on including - A ledger that is a ached securely to the house structure. Flashing to keep water from leaking behind the ledger. Water is directed over the ledger. Joist hangers a ach joists to the ledger. Check Your Deck Look for these signs of trouble - Wood rot: If you see wood rot it could be worse than you think. Ro ed connec ons such as the ledger board to house connec on could lead to deck collapse. Good connec ons: Check points of connec on of major components such as the deck to house, guard-rail to deck, beam to post, post to pier etc. You should see plenty of metal brackets and bolts not nails. If in doubt, have an expert look at your deck. For example, it is very difficult to inspect the deck to house connec- on because it is not easily accessible. Of course, it helps if you know what you are looking for. There are over 40 million decks in North America with over 1 million being built or re-built each year. With care, a deck can last many years and provide a safe place to enjoy the great outdoors.