Tresco Abbey Garden: an Outdoor Tropical Plant Environment at 49-1/2 Degrees North Latitude?
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1 Tresco Abbey Garden: an Outdoor Tropical Plant Environment at 49-1/2 Degrees North Latitude? By: Dr. Jon Bryan Burley, Landscape Architecture, Michigan State University There is an outdoor tropical landscape closer to the North Pole than most of Minnesota. In North America at this latitude, somewhere between Morden, Manitoba, and Winnipeg, Manitoba, the winter temperatures can reach minus 30 to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet travel almost 5,000 miles directly to the east, in the Atlantic Ocean and one will find the Isles of Scilly, where the temperatures rarely fall below freezing and tropical plants abound at the Tresco Abbey Garden. The islands are a 20 minute helicopter ride (50 kilometers) from Land's End in Cornwall, England. Most northern gardeners who travel to England and Scotland will often visit the great gardens at Sissinghurst, Wisley, Kew, Hampton Court, Stourhead, Blenheim, Stowe, Longleat, Cambridge, Edinburgh, and a host of other less famous but just as delightful gardens and estates such as the new Eden Project gardens just west of St. Austell, Cornwall, England. Most of these gardens reside in climates no colder than Chatanooga, Tennessee or Atlanta, Georgia; however, the Isles of Scilly usually get no colder than the Florida Keys (Zone 10). Figure 1. The luxurious Tresco Abbey Garden and the tropical vegetation. (Used by permission Dr. Jon Bryan Burley March, 2001, all rights reserved).
2 Isles of Scilly Physical Geography and Natural History The Isles of Scilly are composed of a large granitic batholith exposed at the ocean's surface, extending beneath the mainland Cornwall landscape. In many places there is not much soil and the beaches are rocky. There are about 50 islands, some no more than exposed rocks above the water. In other areas, sand embankments and even some glacial till can be found residing on the islands. The climate is exceptionally mild, rarely below 10 degrees centigrade, and is home to some uncommon plants and animals. On the rocky shores, shore dock and sand bird's foot can be found growing at their northern limit, along with rare oceanic lichens. The islands have the lesser white-toothed shrew, not found anywhere else in the British Isles but is found in continental Europe. The islands support a small number of grey seals, Manx shearwaters and roseate terns. The islands are an important bird migration site. While the northwesterly flow of water from the gulf stream moderates the winter temperatures, the North Atlantic does bring some gale force westerly winds that are often mitigated by shelterbelts. Most of the sandy beaches are along the southeastern shores. The Island of Tresco is centrally located in the group of islands which provides some shelter from the westerly gales. It was in this setting that the Abbey Gardens on the Island of Tresco was developed. Figure 2. A view of the typically low but rugged landscape on the Isles of Scilly. (Used by permission Dr. Jon Bryan Burley March, 2001, all rights reserved).
3 Tresco Abbey Gardens Augustus John Smith founded the garden in the 1830s on a site with reasonable shelter and a constant supply of fresh water. The site had been the ninth century priory of St. Nicholas affiliated with the Benedictine Tavistock Abbey. The site was abandoned in the 1500s, with very little remaining from the old abbey. Smith was required by the Duchy of Cornwall to improve the life of the inhabitants, and amongst his activities he established the garden. However, when Smith arrived, the vegetation in the islands were no higher than the size of Gorse (Ulex europeans) a prickly tall shrub with yellow flowers, growing on less calcareous sandy soils and Gorse cannot withstand much frost. Features For protection from gales, a 12 foot tall wall was built on the west side of the gardens, but as the gardens expanded, a shelterbelt on the north and west side comprised of Monterey Cypress (Cupessus macrocarpa) and Monterey Pine (Pinus radiata) was added to reduce the effects of salt spray. Within the walls, three parallel east-west terraces traverse the site, with the top terrace on the north side and the bottom terrace on the south side. Many of the plants most suited for the gardens were from South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand, plants and could tolerate low rainfall and high humidity. Aeonium cuneatum, a succulent showy perennial that self-seeds, is typical of the garden and can be found along the upper terrace. The garden also contains many Senecios (Senecios sp.) which likewise self-seed. There are numerous agaves (Agave sp.) and aloes (Aloe sp.). Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) has been growing in the garden since Thirty-five species of Banksia sp., members of the Proteaceae from Australia are included in the garden, along with many South African Proteas (Protea sp.) such as Protea cynaroides and Protea neriifolia. A grove of the black tree ferns (Cyathea medullaris) grow along the protected lowest terrace. Numerous ericas (Erica sp.) from South Africa are presented in the garden. Two palms reside in the garden: Chilean wine palm (Jubea chilensis) and Canary Island Date Palm (Phoenix canariensis). There are many more plant curiosities found in the garden. One of the plant features of this garden is the number of plants blooming on New Year's Day. Every year the flowering plant count is made. About 230 plants in the garden bloom at this time. Another feature of the garden is the Acacia collection for the National Collection for the Conservation of Plants and Gardens. The Tresco collection has eighty-five members of this group with several blooming during the week of the New Year. Snow Storm and Hurricane In January 1987, an extremely rare event occurred when the temperature dropped to around minus 8 degrees centigrade and a blanket of snow covered the ground. About 85% of the plants were affected, with many freezing and then rotting in place. Vegetation removal took three years to complete. Then in January of 1990, a hurricane, with wind speeds of 127 miles per hour swept over the islands, resulting in the destruction of about 90% of the protective shelterbelt..
4 Since these events the garden has recovered. Recent additions to the garden include sculpture and redesign/reconstruction of portions of the terraces. I had the pleasure of visiting the Tresco Abbey Garden in March of 2001; it is a beautiful place. Figure 3. Another view of the Tresco Abbey Garden containing one of the many garden structures along one of the terraces. (Used by permission Dr. Jon Bryan Burley March, 2001, all rights reserved). Visiting the Gardens Originally, the garden was completed by 1858, and in 1861 tourists in substantial numbers began visiting the garden. Since then a steady stream of visitors examine the garden. The garden can be reached by boat or helicopter from Penzance, Cornwall. On the flight over to the islands, one can obtain a great view of Land's End. Trains to Penzance depart from London's Paddington Station. Many visitors arrive by helicopter and stay for just the day, as the landing site is adjacent to the gardens, making an excellent day trip from Penzance. There is a nice shop at the gardens and a modest entrance fee for the gardens, but the nearest ATM machine is back in Penzance, Corwnall. For longer visits, there are charming places to stay and eat on the Islands, and the
5 inhabitants are extremely kind and understanding sharing their environment with visitors. I hope to someday return. For northern gardeners, visiting the Tresco Abbey Gardens is an enlightening experience. Perceptions about latitude and climate are challenged. The Tresco Abbey Gardens will hold a special invitation and meaning for northern gardeners. To learn more about the gardens, I recommend Mike Nelhams' book, the garden's current curator, which describes the garden's history and plant collection. Further Reading Fritter R Mammals. Burton, M. (Ed.) In: The Shell Natural History of Britain. London House and Maxwell. Morse, S. (Ed.) The Country Life Book of the Natural History of the British Isles. Country Life Books. Nelhams, M Tresco Abbey Gardens: a Personal and Pictorial History. Dyllansow Truran. Toghill, P The Geology of Britain: an Introduction. Swan Hill Press. Dr. Jon Bryan Burley is an associate professor and director of the landscape architecture program at Michigan State University. As part of his duties, he has the pleasure of participating in overseas instruction for landscape architecture students at Michigan State University, visiting England, Wales, Scotland, France, Portugal, Morocco, Italy, and Spain.
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