Steven s AA200 Black Walnut Stock Project

Transcription

1 Final Documnet - Part 1, 2 and 3. Mitchejc: Many thanks to Steven Brown for this contribution!!! Steven Brown s photo album can be seen at Steven can be contacted at lynseysjack@talktalk.net Important Note: Please keep in mind that these contributions does take a bit of time to do compile and there is no financial reward. I little bit of friendly encouragement does go a long way with these kind of things ;-) Enough said and time to hand over to Steve. Steven s AA200 Black Walnut Stock Project Well as we all know stock building can make or break the look off your gun and the whole feel off your/our pride and joys. My name is Steven Brown and I m going to talk you through my latest project. The project is a stock for my shooting buddy s AIR ARMS S200 For me the hole stock building thing is all about taking a bit off wood and turning out a lovely piece off work. The first step is to pick a nice bit off wood to use for your stock.now there s a few things you need to do for this. First off you need to make sure the wood you choose is suitable for stock building.some wood are too heavy and are just not suitable for stocks to be made from. Next step is to make sure the wood is fully dried and ready to be worked on. The last thing you want to do is find it cracking or warping when your e half way through, as it starts to dry out. Last step is to make sure the blank can be used for a stock. It must be a true bit of wood and not bowed. If the piece is thick enough you can run it though a thickness and planner and you will be left with a nice bit to work.

2 For me I picked a bit off black walnut for this project. Not the most colorful off woods I ve used but in time it ll show why I have picked this type wood. Now I have got it on the floor.i am ready to draw out my design and work out if it s possible to be done. With these step done I have now taken it to the band saw and cut out the basic shape.

3 Now I have cut out the basic shape I have to make sure the front bit were the action will be seated is level so I can use the router. For this bit I use a wood planner and a good square ruler. With this done I now start to mark out the action taking care to make the markings clear so I can see them as I work the wood. My next step was to get the trigger action cut out. Some builders do it the other way with routering out the front first but I like to take the rear end out first.using the drill press and a forstner bit I slowly drill out the action and leave myself with a little cleaning up with the chisels

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5 The next bit for me is to now start to use the router an rout out the barrel and air bottle/cylinder section. I do this with my router and a r9.5mm cove bit that I have modified.the reason I have done this is so I have a little each side to play with if I have any little mistakes At this point I used a bit off plastic pipe with 120grit sand paper wrapped around it. That was the same size as the air cylinder and sanded it. Done a bit to clean up and router marks and make sure I ll have a bit off play so you can unscrew the air cylinder. The last thing I have to do is to drill through the trigger section. I use the drill press and cross vice for this as it s easier to move the stock along with the cross vice. Next off I tested the fitting off the action and bottle/cylinder.

6 Up to this piont it has taken me about a day and a half to get the stock sitting with the action roughly done all the work i need to do is to final sand it and i,ll do that when i final sand all the stock at the same time. Now comes the creative part off my stock i have taken it back to the drill press to do the hole for the thumbhole.when i do my thumbhole,.s i like to do them at an angle

7 Now i have done the thumbhole i need to start working on the finger grove,s.for this i used plastic pipe with 120 sand paper wrapped around it and a dremil drill working each finger until

8 they feel good.every so ofter i try my fingers in the grip but i could only go so far as i needed to start work on the palm section off the thumbhole I have roughly drawn the grip line,s in and now i try to work around it to make it feel as good as possible.we all know how bad it can be with a bad grip so i have taken care when doing this to make sure it,s not a bad grip.i have got the finger grove,s i try to sort the other side and put some line,s done for part off the stock i want to stand out.for this bit i have used the dremil with sanding drum and marked it clearly

9 Now i have the markings done it,s time to make sure i have the back off the stock inline for the but pad and doing this i mesure the wood,s width and half it now i have drawn a line done the middle and i can now draw around the metalke section off the butpad.. After i have done this i went to rought it out useing the cabinet scrappers as these take away alot more wood quicker than the sandpapaer abd as u c it,s strating to take shape

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11 I do try to work all the back section at the one time as i like to try and get all the line,s to follow the flow off the stock so takeing your time hear can make a big differance.now i have spent about 3hours on this bit as i want to get it right you could do it quicker but i like to take it easy and enjoy it. I have been working on all the back section as much as i can to get it all working toghether and the cheek piece is the next bit i need to takle but that will be in the last part off my project.

12 PART THREE. THE LAST CHAPTER. Well first off i would like to thank u all for shareing this adventure with me.i am sure u will agree it s turned out nicely. now to the final part.. With most off the back section done we are going to working on all off it and blending it all in together.i have worked on the cheek piece with the cabinate scraper trying to get it as comfortable as possible just takeing a few shaves and checking it as soon as u get it to were u feel it,s nice stop as u will take a wee bit off with ther sanding off the stock aswel. To the end off the stock the butpad plate had to be shaped aswel to suit the stock makeing two small pilot hole i have attached the metal plate and started top shape it with the demil and sanding disc,s

13 now at this piont i have tried to take it easy as u can,t glue bit,s back on so if u nacker it up u have to start all over looking down the stock checking there,s no lips on the m,etal plate now the plate is sitting fluss u can use some wet and dry papaer to clean it up and polish it.this bit didn,t take me too long only about an hour. Now were sitting with a finnished stock and a but pad all we need to do is work in andd the sections we have riased on the stock.so out with the 100grit sandpaper.now this is the bit i like a because the more u sand the better the grain come,s through and u start to c small feature,s in the stock i didn,t in a raw state.

14 For me the sanding is a very inportant bit off makeing the stock look realy nice and i like to take it all down the sand papaers to make sure i get it right.i have started with 100 grit and work right down to 600 wet and dry paper this will make the stock nice and sleak and when we start to add the oils, it,ll look nicer.

15 Now i have done all the hard work i,m left with a stock and it need to be ioled so i use dannish oil on my stock.the reason for this is i like the finnish it give,s and it,ll protect the wood for a long time if maintained well.

16 As u see from the pictures the grain realy does come out with this oil.to make sure the stoks protected i gave the stock four coats off dannish giveing it a sand down with 600 wet and dry after each and every coat.

17 To finsih the stock off i have gave it two coats off wax and realy worked it into the wood.after 20 minute,s the wax is dry so u need o polish it well and hard to give it thats clear finnish we all want on our pride and joys

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