SeasonMaker Hi-Line Fan-coil Units Model HSS S10 & S12

Transcription

1 Installation & Maintenance Data IM SeasonMaker Hi-Line Fan-coil Units Model HSS S10 & S12 Group: Fan coil Part Number: # Date: June 1999 Table of Contents Inspection Installation Startup Maintenance Service Replacement Parts McQuay Incorporated

2 Inspection Installation and maintenance are to be performed only by qualified personnel who are familiar with and in compliance with state, local and national codes and regulations, and experienced with this type of equipment. Caution: Sharp edges and coil surfaces are a potential injury hazards. Avoid contact with them. When the equipment is received, all items must be carefully checked against the bill of lading to be sure all crates and cartons have been received. The units are normally shipped four to a pallet. Visible or concealed damage should be reported immediately to the carrier and a claim filed to him for damage. The electrical nameplate should be checked to be sure it agrees with the power supply available. DO NOT HANDLE UNITS BY THE RISER PIPING. Riser clamps are used to hold the riser in position. They should not be expected to support the weight of the cabinet. INSTALLATION 1. Place unit over riser hole in the floor. Adjust location so riser extensions align with risers on unit below. 2 Isolator pads (not provided by McQuay) if used, must be in place before connecting riser. 3. The horizontal stubs protruding into the cabinet from the risers must be centered in the three-inch slot in the panel before risers are soldered in place. This is important to allow for riser expansion or contraction of plus or minus one inch. Riser normally extends approximately 5 above the cabinet when the stub is centered in the slot. 4. The unit has provision for plus or minus one inch of riser movement due to expansion or contraction. Risers must be anchored to the building structure in such a manner to prevent vertical riser movement in excess of plus or minus one inch. 5. Risers must be anchored to the building as there is no provision on the unit to support the weight of the risers. 6. Care must be taken to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from entering the risers as plugged lines or valves could result. 7. With the unit in the final location, check level to insure proper condensate drainage and operation. 8. Connect supply and return risers by soldering slip couplings. (Reducing couplings not supplied by McQuay). Join drain riser with coupling using PVC solvent cement on both surfaces (or solder if riser is copper). 9. Apply insulation (available from McQuay) to risers between floors and cement joints to avoid condensation problems. 10. To assure compliance with existing building codes, the installing contractor must restore the original fire resistance rating of the structure by sealing the access space around the risers with material having the same fire rating as the structure. This procedure is very important also in assuring that a seal is provided between floors to prevent the passage of warm, humid air which can cause condensation on riser insulation. This is most critical in unpressurized buildings with high infiltration rates. 11. Vent the coils. Vent is accessible from return air opening. 12. Hydrostatically test riser and unit connection joints to assure they are leakproof before unit is furred in. 13. The thermostat box has been installed in the front panel in the position that will allow plasterboard to be attached directly to the unit. If the installation requires that the wall be furred out away from the unit, the box can be adjusted out to 3 7 / 8 by removing the four screws "A:' (see Figure 2), and pulling the box out. Replace screws "A:'. If a dimension other than the 3 7 / 8 or 3 / 8 is required, this can be accomplished by using the angle bracket as a template and drilling.149 Page 2 / IM 168 diameter screw holes in the box at the desired depth. 14. When the plasterboard or other wall material does not fit flat against the face of the unit, extension sleeves must be furnished by the contractor for both the return and supply air openings. 15. Wire in accordance with local codes or the National Electric Code, whichever is applicable. Provide branch circuit overcurrent protection and disconnect means. The complete system wiring diagram is located on the front cover. Bring electrical wiring through the side of the cabinet into the wiring box located on the right-hand side of the cabinet (see Figures 1 and 3). Two 7 / 8, diameter knockouts for wire entrance are provided. When routing wiring through the cabinet make sure it will not be in the way should fan removal be required (see page 6). 16. The unit mounted combination thermostat and fan switch has a quick disconnect plug for insertion into a receptacle in the back of the thermostat box to complete the internal wiring. The return air bulb on the thermostat must then be strung through the hole in the back of the thermostat box and down through the hole in the coil support angle and attached to the bulb clip in front of the filter (see Figure 1). Be sure the rubber grommets are in place where the capillary tube passes through the panels. 17. Rotate the fan wheel by hand to make sure the wheel is free. 18. If ducts are being added, be sure the resistance is within the limits of the external static pressures shown in the catalog for the particular unit being installed. The ducts should be designed for velocities in accordance with the methods outlined in the ASHRAE Guidebooks. It is recommended that the airborne noise be controlled with sound attenuating materials and by installing flexible connection between the unit and ductwork. Ductwork should be installed in accordance with NFPA 90A and NFPA 90B. 19. When furring in units, make sure that no screws (other than grille or plaster frame attaching screws) or nails penetrate the unit cabinet. Grille or plaster frame attaching screws should never penetrate the cabinet more than two inches. 20. The return air grille plaster frame should be attached on the opening over the top of the plasterboard. Use the plaster frame as a template to drill pilot holes into the wall or unit for the attaching screws. (See Figure 4.) In order for the grille panel to fit the plaster frame properly, the plaster frame must be mounted with the corners square. When the plaster frame has been mounted to the unit, attach the two retaining clips (supplied with the plaster frame) to the plaster frame adjacent to the lower attaching screws. (See Figure 5.)

3 Figure 1. HSS Installation Figure 2. Unit Mounted Thermostat Box Page 3 / IM 168

4 Figure 3. Field Wiring Box for Units with Line Voltage Control Systems Figure 4. Grille Panel with Plaster Frame Figure 5. Plaster Frame Retaining Clip Installation Page 4 / IM 168

5 START-UP 1. After unit is furred in, but prior to unit start-up, make sure no foreign material remains in the unit paying particular attention to the drain pan and drain line. Blockage of the drain line will result in water overflow of the drain pan. 2. Open supply and return water service valves. 3. If unit does not have the automatic flow control option, balance water flow rate with hand valve on return line. 4. Replace front access panel (see Figure 1). 5. Put filter into position. 6. Install return air grille. 7. All windows and doors should be in and closed before starting up the unit. 8. Switch unit to "on" and check for proper operation of fans, fan speed switch, and thermostat. 9. When there is a high amount of moisture in the air, the initial pulldown should be very gradual (high fan speed for maximum air flow with reduced GPM and elevated chilled water temperature for reduced capacity). Outside air supply and toilet exhaust systems should not be operated until the gradual pulldown has been completed. If these steps are taken, the possibility of the unit sweating will be reduced. MAINTENANCE 1. Filters must be clean to obtain maximum unit performance. They should be inspected every three or four months under normal operating conditions and be replaced when necessary. Units should never be run without a filter. 2. In areas where airborne bacteria produce a slime in the drain pan, it may be necessary to treat chemically to minimize the problem. Contact - your local McQuay representative or one of the many companies dealing with water conditioning. 3. The condensate drain pan can pick up lint and dirt, especially with dirty filters. Inspect twice a year to avoid the possibility of overflow. 4. The fan motor has been oiled at the factory. It is not necessary to oil the first six months when under continuous operation. Oil every six months with one teaspoon or five cc per bearing of SAE No. 20 nondetergent oil. DO NOT OVERLUBRICATE. 5. The coil must be clean to obtain maximum performance. Check once a year under normal operating conditions, and if dirty brush or vacuum clean. Care must be taken not to damage the aluminum fins while cleaning. CAUTION: Fin edges are sharp. Page 5 / IM 168

6 SERVICE 1. If fan or motor service is required on unit size S10 or the S12, the fan motor can be removed through the return air opening as follows: a. Shut off electrical power to unit. b. Remove return air grille panel. c. Remove front access panel (see Figure 1). d. Disconnect the fan motor leads at the wiring box. e. Remove two nuts holding side fan housing support angles to the fan deck. Lower front side of fan housing allowing back fan housing support angle to unhook from fan deck (see Figure 6). f. Remove fan housing through return air opening. g. Loosen shaft setscrew. h. Remove three screws holding motor mount assembly to fan housing. i. Motor and mount assembly can now be removed from fan housing. j. Disassemble motor from motor mount assembly. k. Reverse process to reassemble. 2. The McQuay electric heater elements, if furnished, are designed with a high limit control set to trip out when the cabinet temperatures reach 175 F and automatically resets when the cabinet temperatures drop to 140 F. If the high limit opens the circuit, the unit is not performing properly and should be checked to find the cause. Some probable causes would be not enough air over the heater due to dirty filter, fan motor not operating, dirty coil, fan wheel loose on the motor shaft, or loose electrical connections. Figure 6. S10 & S12 Fan Housing Assembly 3. If the electric heater should require service, it may be removed by the following method: a. Shut off electrical power to the unit. CAUTION: There may be more than one power source on the unit. b. Replacement of the high limit control or the complete heater can be done by removing the discharge grille and reaching through the opening, then removing sheetmetal screws A and B as shown in Figure 5. c. Lift entire element out of the sheetmetal frame as shown in Figure 5. d. Replace the defective part and reinstall the heater Figure 7. Replacement Parts When writing for service or replacement parts, direct your letters to McQuayService, and refer to the model number and the serial number of the heater as stamped on the serial plate attached to the heater kit. If replacement parts are required, give the date of the heater kit installation and the date of the failure; also, give description of replacement parts and explanation of malfunction. Page 6 / IM 168

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8 AAF-McQuay Incorporated 4900 Technology Park Boulevard, Auburn, New York USA (315) Printed on recycled paper containing at least 10% post-consumer recycled material.