Historic Landscape Character Areas. Historic Landscape Character Areas. Maps and Descriptions

Transcription

1 The Wild Downs and Hills.. Creating Historic Environment Action Plans for the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB Historic Landscape Character Areas Historic Landscape Character Areas Maps and Descriptions Draft 1 January 2010

2 Contents Introducing the Historic Landscape Character Areas...2 AREA 1: Longleat to Penselwood Hills and Kilmington Common...3 AREA 2: Sutton Veny, Cold Kitchen Hill and Zeals Knoll...8 AREA 3: Chalk River Valleys...12 AREA 4: Northern Wylye and Ebble Valley Sides...18 AREA 5: Chalk Downland...22 AREA 6: Great Ridge and Grovely Woods...29 AREA 7: Parliamentary patterns on the Fovant terrace and between Chalbury and Woodlands...32 AREA 8: Chalk Escarpments...36 AREA 9: Vale of Wardour...40 AREA 10: Wooded Chalk Downland of the Cranborne Chase and Chetterwood...45 AREA 11: Downland Hills of 53

3 Introducing the Historic Landscape Character Areas Eleven distinct Historic Landscape Character Areas have been identified in the AONB. The attributes used to identify the Historic Landscape Character Areas was based on information in the AONB Historic Landscape Characterisation. The HLC provided two key pieces of information: - 1. The present day historic landscape character present in the AONB. 2. The surviving evidence of the historical development of the area. The following descriptions aim to provide an overview of each area which encapsulates the main features of the Historic Environment present and include both the archaeological and historical, the very old and the more recent. The process through which the Historic Landscape Character Areas were identified, and mapped is documented in the accompanying methodological statement Creating Historic Character Areas. The sources of information used to create these descriptions are outlined in the accompanying methodological statement Describing Historic Character Areas. 2 of 53

4 AREA 1: Longleat to Penselwood Hills and Kilmington Common Location Far north-western edge of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB. Straddling the Wiltshire and Somerset border stretching from Longleat in the north to Penselwood in the south. Summary Great swathe of veteran forest which runs from Warminster to just north of the A303 at Penselwood, along the sinuous greensand escarpment. Core of the former Medieval forest of Selwood. Nationally important historic houses and their associated gardens and parklands. Remnants of Medieval deer parks. Ancient shire boundary between Wiltshire and Somerset Long continuity of land holdings. Former common land in vicinity of Kilmington and Horningsham Ancient irregular fields in the vicinity of Penselwood. Cluster of Medieval motte and bailey castles in the south of the area. Ancient quern stone quarries at Pen Pits. Dense network of historic routeways. Archaeological association of Colt Hoare and Cunnington and the antiquarian book Ancient Wiltshire. Impact of modern tourism in the north of the area with the creation of Centre Parcs and the safari park at Longleat. 3 of 53

5 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The ancient county boundary between Somerset and Wiltshire runs north south across the area. Selwood is mentioned as a boundary in Saxon charters. This boundary deviates from the modern county boundary at Kilmington. It has never been surveyed but is most likely associated with veteran trees and banks. There is a boundary stone situated at the junction of three counties, traditionally known as Egberts or Ecbrylestone Stone. The Ancient Parishes are irregular in shape but run east west from the county boundary, encompassing a slice of the higher wooded ground and the greensand terrace below. These are important historic boundaries, again, associated with veteran tress which also coincide with the ancient hundreds. In the Medieval period major landowners were monasteries and the crown evidenced by the earthworks of the former Priories at Maiden Bradley and Witham Friary. The latter which has been excavated. The Post Medieval land ownership was dominated by three major landowners with the same pattern in today s landscape. The Thynnes (later Marquess of Bath) at Longleat, The Dukes of Norfolk at Maiden Bradley and Lord Stourton (later the Hoares) at Stourhead. The designed park and house at Stourhead was passed into the management of the National Trust in the 20 th century. There has therefore been a continuity of land holdings reflected in the historic land patterns present. Fields in the Landscape Ancient field systems have been recorded from aerial photographs on the edge of woodland in the vicinity of Maiden Bradley and Horningsham. It is likely these continue into the woodland. Pre 1800 fields interspersed with blocks of 19 th century enclosure are found along the eastern side of the area. These have seen only small scale modification of the early field boundaries. The southern edge of the area is dominated by pre 1800 piecemeal irregular curving enclosure which links beyond the borders of the AONB to a similar pattern of fields in the Donheads. The hedged field boundaries here are especially important. This is a very locally distinctive form of field. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape Two very large nationally important landscaped parks with great historic houses at their core. These are Longleat and Stourhead, and both are formed of extensive parkland largely of mid 18 th century origin. Longleat Park is notable as it was designed by Lancelot Brown, with additions by Humphrey Repton, whilst Stourhead is visited for its landscaped gardens laid out with a classical theme. There is a large concentration of former Medieval deer parks. This includes one multiple deer park. There are three locally listed historic parks and gardens. 4 of 53

6 Hunting Landscapes The area is completely within the Medieval hunting forest of Selwood. The special laws governing this area overarched the pattern of historic landownership in the Medieval period. Industry in the Landscape Penselwood is known for a series of quarry pits for quern stone, probably multi-period but dating back to the Iron Age. These cover a fairly extensive area. Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration & Defence Three Medieval motte and bailey castles cluster around Penselwood and Zeals suggesting this area was strategically important in the period in the 11 th century in the period immediately after the Norman conquest. Landscapes of Prehistory Bronze Age Round Barrows are located along the greensand ridge and in the vicinity of Maiden Bradley. On the edge of the woodland there is a dispersed low level scatter of Mesolithic, Neolithic and Bronze Age findspots. Several Iron Age hillforts, of which Cley Hill is associated with multi period earthworks and is a dominant feature of the northern area. The Pen Pits Quern Stone Quarries date back to the Iron Age (see above). Late 20 th Century activity in the Landscape Modern tourist enterprise dominates the northern area with the Longleat Safari Park situated within the historic parkland, and Centreparcs to the west concealed within modern plantations. The artificial Shearwater (late 18 th century) on the north west edge forms another feature which is the focus of modern recreational activity. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Stourhead was the home of Sir Richard Colt Hoare who along with William Cunnington wrote Ancient Wiltshire. Nationally Designated Heritage Low number of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (17) compared with other areas, 3 of these are at High Risk. The SAMs in this area are under threat from scrub and tree growth, forestry practices and visitor erosion. There are 174 listed buildings in the area. These cluster in the historic settlements and are associated with the historic estates. There are two Grade I registered parks and gardens Open Land Former common land at Kilmington and Horningsham enclosed by the 19 th century but influencing subsequent field morphology and surviving as place names. 5 of 53

7 Former common land in plantations near Centre Parcs to the east of Longleat Park mark an area of former common land and rough grazing. Area of unimproved chalk grassland associated with Cley Hill. Routeways in the Landscape Dense irregular network of curving footpaths associated with former common land and providing access to dispersed settlement. Gap in pattern of public access across the historic Longleat Estate. Network of tracks in forestry not publically accessible. One north-south minor road on eastern edge of the area which was a former turnpike road, marked by Milestones. This forms part of a wider network of turnpikes in the area but these have no known milestones associated with them. Several historic byways in the vicinity of Kilmington Common associated with access routes across the common land. The east-west droveway, the Harrow Way, crosses the area. The area is crossed by a Roman Road the line of which is marked by a public footpath on the higher ground in the woodland. Settlement in the Landscape Archaeological evidence for one Iron Age settlement. Archaeological evidence for early Medieval settlement in the vicinity of Zeals. Concentration of deserted/shrunken later Medieval settlement either side of the woodland belt. A mixed historic settlement pattern including historic settlement located on the edge of former common land at Kilmington and Horningsham. Dense nucleated dispersed pre 1750 settlement in the vicinity of Zeals, Crockerton, Selwood and around Longleat providing access to the higher ground. The house and parkland at Longleat is separated from nearby settlement while in contrast the village of Stourhead is more intimatly related to Stourhead. Creation of dispersed farmsteads in the 19 th century with infilling of existing settlements, notably Maiden Bradley in the 20 th century. Local building material is red brick and limestone with clay roof tiles. Overarching influence of estate style especially at Stourton. Three Conservation Areas, Horningsham, Maiden Bradley and Stourton. King Alfred s Tower and other built features associated with the historic estates are notable features of the area. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape Sinuous wide ribbon of veteran forest which runs from Warminster to just north of the A303 at Penselwood, along the greensand escarpment. This forms the core of the former Medieval forest of Selwood Forest but in the present day is dominated by conifers, with some remnant semi-natural woodland. This woodland had been extended in the northwest with the addition of large plantations in the 20 th century. The woodland belt has seen the clearance of small areas of woodland during the 20 th century and small scale addition of woodland on its edges. Long-established woodland is perhaps the most distinguishing feature of this character area and much of it has been replanted with exotic coniferous 6 of 53

8 species. There is very little recent establishment except around the forest edge. This area has a long history of forest management. The Kilmington Terrace has retained some excellent ancient trees in hedgerows, river banks and alongside springs. Occasional shelterbelts, the majority of which comprise relatively recent broadleaved plantation, occur throughout. 7 of 53

9 AREA 2: Sutton Veny, Cold Kitchen Hill and Zeals Knoll Location Three discrete areas in the northwest of the AONB. They are located both sides of the Deverill Valley (HLCA 3) and cut by the West Wiltshire Downs (HLCA 5) and Kilmington Common (HLCA1). Summary Cluster of nationally important Prehistoric sites in the vicinity of Sutton Veny. Pockets of older land use including unimproved chalk grassland for example at Bidcombe Hill. Dispersed settlement of isolated pre 1800 and 19 th century farmsteads with the exception of Sutton Veny. Local building material is commonly Chert greensand and red brick. Regular 18 th and 19 th century enclosure obscuring traces of earlier field boundaries. Iron Age and Romano British shrine on Cold Kitchen Hill. Unfortunately this was poorly excavated in the early 20 th century, although spectacular finds were recovered. Veteran woodland of Southleigh and Eastleigh Woods. 8 of 53

10 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership Ancient parishes in this area are irregular in shape, more square than the surrounding parishes. These are important historic boundaries. The area cuts across several different historic hundreds the boundaries of which probably coincide with ancient parish boundaries. Strong influence of the monastic and royal estates in the Medievel period. Fields in the Landscape Prehistoric and Romano-British field systems in the vicinity of Cold Kitchen Hill and Bidcombe Down and undated linear boundaries running along the escarpment edge. The area is dominated by 19 th century enclosure which in many instances has obscured traces of earlier land use. The north of the area is dominated by very regular planned 19 th century enclosure while fields in the centre of the area are larger more irregular in form often driven by topography. Those in the southern area are regular medium sized parliamentary enclosure which contrasts with the area to the west Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape Deer park in the vincity of Southleigh Woods. Hunting Landscapes The area is within the Medieval hunting forest of Selwood. The special laws governing this area overarched the pattern of historic landownership in the Medieval period. Industry in the Landscape There is a large industrial estate to the west of Sutton Veny. Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence There was a World War One camp and a hutted military hospital of more than 1200 beds at Sutton Veny. This history is represented by Sutton Veny Churchyard which contains 168 First World War burials, 167 of them in a plot at the north west corner of the church. Landscapes of Prehistory The known archaeological record dominated by Prehistoric archaeology and undated features including the enclosure of Robin Hoods Bower in Southleigh Woods. Cluster of prehistoric sites in the vicinity of Sutton Veny including a henge, long barrow and round barrows. 9 of 53

11 There are Neolithic long barrows on Cold Kitchen Hill and the escarpment edge is crossed by cross dykes. Both Cold Kitchen Hill and Bidcombe Hill feature clusters of Bronze Age round barrows. Iron Age and Romano-British shrine on Cold Kitchen Hill badly effected by early excavations. Late 20 th Century activity in the Landscape Not Applicable Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Excavations of the Roman Temple on Cold Kitchen Hill by Nan Kevill, in1925 to 1926, which recorded no information of stratigraphy, features or the locations of the spectacular finds Nationally Designated Heritage Medium number of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (28) compared with other areas, though this number is quite high in relation to the size of the area, 4 of these are at high risk. The SAMs in this area are under threat from scrub and tree growth and ploughing. There are 45 listed buildings in the area. These cluster in the historic settlements and are associated with the historic estates. There are 2 Grade II* listed buildings. There are no registered park and gardens. Open Land The higher ground of Cold Kitchen and Brimscombe Hill represents a pocket of older land use with veteran woodland and semi-enclosed chalk grassland on the steep escarpment edges and the hill tops combined with some recently enclosed 20 th century fields. These represent the remnants of a much greater area of downland which existed prior to the 19 th century. Routeways in the Landscape Much less dense network of routeways than in the surrounding area. Crisscrossed by a network of bridleways and very few roads. Area crossed by a Roman Road and several turnpikes in the north. Settlement in the Landscape There is one known Iron Age settlement on higher ground in the vicnity of Bidcombe Hill. The deserted Medieval village of Hill Deverill is on the edge of the area above the upper reaches of the Wylye River. The present day settlement pattern is of dispersed farms with one village in the northwest. The only settlement in the area is isolated pre 1800 and 19 th century farmsteads, with the exception of Sutton Veny in the far north east of the area. 10 of 53

12 Sutton Veny is a pre 1800 settlement focused on the cross roads and the church to the south, which has undergone some infilling in the 19 th century and 20 th century. Local building material is commonly Chert greensand and red brick. Sutton Veny is a Conservation Area. Notable buildings are associated with the village of Sutton Veny, and include a Grade II* manor house. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape The northeast is dominated by the veteran woodland of Southleigh and Eastleigh Wood. There is another area of woodland, considered to be of veteran origin, at Bidcombe Hill. The other woodlands are of post 1750 origin and are very dispersed and small in scale. This reflects the fact that the area had previously been open downland. 11 of 53

13 AREA 3: Chalk River Valleys Location This area comprises six discrete chalk river valley bottoms: - 3A The Wylye Valley curving west to east across the north of the AONB to the Wiltshire Avon. - 3B The Ebble Valley flowing west to east across the centre of the AONB to the Wiltshire Avon. - 3C The Tarrant Valley flowing north to south across the south of the AONB to the Stour. - 3D Allen Valley flowing north to south across the south of the AONB to the Stour. - 3E The River Crane north to south across the south of the AONB to the join the Avon. - 3F the Allen River flowing from Martin to Fordingbridge to join the Avon Summary The area is by historic landscape types associated with valley bottoms. This includes networks of water meadows and meadows interspersed with small scale woodland. The Wylye Valley formed an historic boundary land in the Iron Age, Roman and Early Medieval periods. Ancient parishes form slices across the river valleys. 12 of 53

14 The Ebble Valley has seen a sustained pattern of land ownership and land holdings. Historic sinuous routeways of parallel roads and tracks follow the river bottoms punctuated by historic crossing points. High density of historic settlement and houses based on a Medieval pattern. Tree cover is a vital part of the landscape forming sinuous ribbons along the valley floor. Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The Wylye Valley forms the northern boundary of the spread of Durotriges material culture in the Iron Age. It also provides evidence for the extent of spread of Saxon culture in the late 5 th and 6 th century AD. The Wylye Valley is crossed by linear north south parishes which take in a slice of valley and downland, those in the Upper Deverill's run east west. The ancient parishes in the Ebble also take a north-south slice but they are much larger, relating much more closely to the pattern of ancient hundreds. They are bounded to the north by the ancient droveway the Salisbury Way and the county boundary to the south. In the southern chalk valleys the parishes form an east west slice across the Tarrant Valley but those in the Gussage Valley are much more irregular. The Ebble has been subject to a sustained pattern of land holdings. It forms the vast part of the Chalke hundred granted to Wilton Abbey in 10 th century which then passed to the Earl of Pembroke at the Dissolution. This long duree is visible in the landscape through the great avenues established by the Earls of Pembroke. In the Wylye Valley the continuity of land holdings is also represented by the influence of the Hungerford s in the Wylye Valley. There landholdings were based on the pattern of ancient hundreds, three of which cut the valley. Medieval ecclesiastical influence in the valley is represented by the remains of a hospital at Heystebury which survives as almhouses, and were rebuilt in Similarly the influence of the Abbey of Shaftesbury in the Tarrant Valley is visible in the abandoned settlement at Tarrant Crawford. The original settlement was relocated to make way for a nunnery in the thirteenth century and in time the new site was also deserted. The continuity of landownership is felt in the Allen Valley through the influence of the Earls of Shaftesbury centred on Wimborne St Giles. This is represented by the creation of the parkland through which the river cuts. Fields in the Landscape There are large scale water meadow systems throughout the chalk valleys. These have often obscured traces of earlier meadows and farming systems. The valley bottoms are also associated with water cress beds, fish ponds and mill ponds. In the Wylye Valley the water meadows are punctuated by areas of 19 th century formal enclosure. 13 of 53

15 The Tarrant Valley has a high instance of 19 th century formal enclosure; these contain traces of pre 1800 field patterns. In the Allen Valley, 20 th century fields also feature and these have heavily modified earlier pre 1800 fields. The Allen River Valley has traces of pre 1800 fields and meadows, being less dominated by water meadow systems. In the Ebble Valley some ancient fields have been recorded from aerial photographs. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape In the Wylye Valley there is no nationally designated parkland but there are large numbers of locally listed historic parks and gardens. Tarrant Valley is cut by Gunville Park. Parkland is similarly dominant in the Allen Valley. The river runs through the parkland at Long Crichel and Wimborne St Giles. Hunting Landscapes The upper Wylye Valley was within Selwood Forest whilst its lower reaches were on the edge of Grovely Forest. The other river valleys were all within the outer bounds of the Cranborne Chase Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence The military camps on the northern slopes of the River Wylye (see HLCA 4) are reflected by the Anzac cemetery in Codford. Landscapes of Prehistory There are a small number of nationally important Prehistoric features, including the Dorset Cursus which crosses the Allen Valley. There is a low density scatter of Mesolithic and Neolithic findspots across the Wylye. Late 20 th Century activity in the Landscape The Wylye Valley is notable for the large lake at Langford, a nature reserve created after 20 th century gravel extraction. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Charly French, Mike Allen and Helen Lewis undertook a Palaeoenvironmental and archaeological investigation of the upper Allen Valley of Cranborne Chase, Dorset, between 1998 and East Dorset Antiquarian Society have been undertaking excavations in recent years focusing particularly on the Allen Valley. Nationally Designated Heritage There are a small number of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (16) compared with other areas, this number is quite low in relation to the size of the area, 3 of these are at High Risk. There are no SAMs in the Crane Valley or the Allen 14 of 53

16 River. The SAMs in this area are under threat from scrub and tree growth, stock erosion and ploughing. There are a high number of listed buildings (588) in the area which are stretched out along the valley bottoms. There are 4 Grade I listed buildings. There are four sites on the English Heritage Buildings at Risk Register. The Grade I Listed building of St Giles House in Wimborne St Giles and the Grade II* Grotto associated with it; Tarrant Abbey Farm Barn and out buildings and the remains of medieval buildings at Witchampton. There are 2 registered park and gardens; Crichel House in the Allen Valley and Cranborne Manor in the Crane Valley. The parkland associated with St Giles House also cuts through the Allen Valley. Open Land Formerly open meadows in the river valleys have been mostly obscured by water meadows. Areas of reed and wet woodland represent the location of former withy beds. Routeways in the Landscape In the Wylye Valley the routeways run along the valley bottom as parallel roads and trackways. These are connected at right angles to straight tracks and bridleways which run both north and south to the higher downland areas to both the south and north. One of these is the ancient droveway the Harrow Way. This pattern breaks down in the Upper Deverill Valley where there is a more irregular pattern of footpaths and bridleways. Two parallel turnpikes were created along the valley but only the northern road is marked by milestones. The impact of the development of modern transportation networks includes the 19 th century railway which runs up the valley, the impact of road improvement at Crockerton and the modern junction between the A36 and A303. In addition the military railway to the WW2 camps at Codford is still visible as an earthwork. In the Ebble Valley linear sinuous minor roads run up the valley parallel with footpaths. These are joined by access routes running both north and south leading to higher downland, which often mark key crossing points across the Ebble. Those to the north connect into the ancient Salisbury Way droveway. There is a more irregular network of routeways around Bowerchalke. The roads in the southern AONB chalk river valleys also run along the valley bottom connecting into the A354, but these are linked into a much more irregular system of access to downland, not necessarily at right angles to the river floor. Several of the valleys are crossed by Roman roads and one follows the course of the Tarrant. The valley bottoms are associated with historic crossing points of the rivers including clapper bridges and fords. Some have been replaced with modern bridges, for example at Barford St Martin. Settlement in the Landscape There are a small number of nationally important Roman features including Roman roads and settlements. There is archaeological evidence for a Roman settlement in the vicinity of Codford in the Wyle Valley The known archaeological record is dominated by Medieval and Post Medieval sites, including shrunken and deserted settlements, buildings, ecclesiastical sites, watermills, water meadows and bridges. The deserted 15 of 53

17 Medieval villages form an especially dense pattern in the Wylye and Tarrant Valleys. There is archaeological evidence for an Early Medieval settlement in the Wylye Valley and clusters of findspots along its length. There are also clusters of Early Medieval findspots recorded by the Portable Antiquity Scheme through the Tarrant. The chalk river valleys have a high density of settlement along their lengths, and the historic form of these settlements is a key attribute of these areas. This is a patchwork of pre 1800 nucleated and linear villages preserving a Medieval pattern of settlement, some of which has now shrunk to single farm complexes. The nucleated villages tend to be centred on manor houses and parish churches. Local building material is commonly stone and knapped flint, red brick or timber framed cottages. The Wyle Valley is characterised by a high density of villages, both linear and nuclear in form, either side of the river. These focus around parish churches and manor houses. The typical building material is grey and honey coloured stone with slate and thatch roofs. Locally distinctive features are high thatched cob walls. The Ebble Valley is characterised by a similarly dense pattern of hamlets and villages at close intervals, often with manor houses at their core. These are not as large as those in the Wylye Valley. Settlement has a linear form and several settlements extend up the valley sides. Both Broad Chalke and Bowerchalke show a greater range of building materials than in other settlements in the AONB. The settlements in the southern AONB chalk river valleys are linear with the exception of the Allen Valley the settlement pattern is more dispersed around the edges of the river valley especially on the edge of Chetterwood and Crichel Park. The linear settlement of Wimborne St Giles in the Allen Valley is formed of two parallel lanes either side of the stream. Cottages tend to be timber framed with render or brick, with large numbers of thatched roofs. Estate style dominates in some villages, noticeable Cranborne. The Wylye and Ebble Valleys have seen the greatest infilling of settlement in the 19 th and 20 th centuries. The north end of the Tarrant Valley has also undergone infilling. There are 26 Conservation Areas associated with this area, though only a handful of these have Conservation Area Appraisals. Notable buildings are associated with the villages, including a high number of manor houses and parish churches. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape In the Wylye Valley tree cover is a vital part of the landscape along the valley floor. Lines of willows and poplars follow field boundaries and the past and present courses of the Wylye and its tributaries. In the Ebble Valley small broadleaved woodland belts and scattered trees line the narrow floodplain and are conspicuous along the course of the river. The narrow valley bottom of the south AONB chalk river valleys are distinguished by the mature willows and poplars which form a dense ribbon of trees tracing the course of the river. The woodlands that occur are mostly broadleaved and are easy to date if they are related to parklands, which many 16 of 53

18 of them are. There was a good deal of planting in the 18 th and 19 th centuries but some woodland does date from before 1750 and were included into later planned landscapes. 17 of 53

19 Location AREA 4: Northern Wylye and Ebble Valley Sides This area comprises two discrete areas of the AONB 4A The northern side of the River Wylye in the north of the AONB 4B The sides of the Ebble Valley Summary The historic landscape in these areas is extremely homogenous. The known archaeological record is dominated by undated circular and linear features, enclosures and field systems. Blocks of 19 th century enclosure dominate. Ebble Valley has been subject to sustained pattern of historic land holdings There are blocks of regular 20 th century plantation. 18 of 53

20 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The ancient parishes run north south across the valley sides of the Wylye, taking in a thin slice of valley bottom side and downland. In the Post Medieval period the upper Wylye was under the influence of the Hungerfords. The Wylye Valley forms the northern boundary of the spread of Durotriges material culture in the Iron Age. It also provides evidence for the extent of spread of Saxon culture in the 6 th century AD. In contrast ancient parishes in the Ebble Valley also take a north-south slice but they are much larger, relating much more closely to the pattern of ancient hundreds. They are bounded to the north by the ancient droveway the Salisbury Way, and the county boundary to the south. The Ebble has been subject to a sustained pattern of land holdings. It forms the vast part of the Chalke Hundred granted to Wilton Abbey in 10 th century which then passed to Earl of Pembroke at the Dissolution. This long duree is visible in the landscape through the great avenues established by the Earls of Pembroke. Fields in the Landscape The two areas consist of modern 20 th century blocks of fields which enclosed the former open downland. In the Ebble Valley blocks of 19 th century enclosure also dominate which have in turn been modified in the 20 th century. The north slope of the Wylye Valley has one area of modified pre 1800 fields Both areas are criss-crossed with the remains of much older field systems (Roman and Prehistoric) which have been recorded from aerial photographs. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape There is one Medieval deer park on the southern slopes of the Ebble Valley Hunting Landscapes The Ebble Valley is wholly within the outer bounds of the Cranborne Chase. Industry in the Landscape There are former small scale chalk quarries on the sides of the valleys. Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence The northern Wylye Valley sides are associated with a concentration of former military features, including the remenants of Codford Camp, and a rifle range. There is one small surviving camp on the edge of the AONB boundary at Knook. Above Codford a World War One Anzac cap badge was cut into the chalk and survives. 19 of 53

21 Landscapes of Prehistory There is a low density scatter of Neolithic and Bronze Age findpots. There are a significant number of Bronze Age round barrows dispersed through the Ebble Valley. In contrast round barrows on the north side of the Wylye cluster above at Codford and Deptford. Late 20 th Century Activity in the Landscape A small mobile caraven park is situated in the Ebble valley. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery On the north slope of the Wylye valley Wiliiam Cunnington ( ) and his patron Richard Colt Hoare, who lived at Stourhead in Wiltshire excavated many barrows systematically, recording their findings and using stratigraphy to distinguish between primary and secondary burials. Nationally Designated Heritage There are a medium number of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (32) compared with other areas, this number is quite low in relation to the size of the area, and 16 of these are at high risk. The SAMs in this area are under threat from scrub and tree growth, arable clipping and ploughing. There are a 24 listed buildings but the majority of these are mileposts and boundary stones with a few historic farm buildings There are no registered parks and gardens. Open Land These areas were comprised of large areas of open chalk downland prior to the 19 th century. The evidence for this former land use survives as place name evidence and a lack of mature woodland hedgerow. Routeways in the Landscape The area north of the River Wylye is crossed by linear downland access routes including roads, tracks, bridleways and byways, which run north from the river valley. These routes are often abraded and sunken. The area is also crossed by north long distance routes, including the ancient harroway, an 18 th century turnpike (a track parallel to the modern A303) and the A303 itself. Similarly in the Ebble Valley there are a network of parallel north south access tracks these give access to downland to the south, the Ox Drove, and the ancient droveway known as the Salisbury Way to the north. There are very few modern roads leading north or south from the valley floor. Settlement in the Landscape Iron Age settlement on lower slopes on northern side of the Ebble Valley. Settlement is extremely scarce with isolated 20 th century farms and downland barns. There is a deserted Medieval settlement at the head of the Ebble Valley above the level of current settlement. 20 of 53

22 There are no Conservation Areas Woodland and Trees in the Landscape The northern side of the Wylye Valley is broken up by linear blocks of 20 th century woodland plantation. Many of the hill-tops and rounded bluffs on the valley sides are capped with characteristic small copses and plantations. These blocks are much smaller in the Ebble Valley and less regular. Regular occurrence of small copses, shelterbelts and avenues. The now fragmented beech avenue which rises from Broad Chalke to Knowlton Hill forms a valuable landscape feature within the valley, providing a 'tunnelled' lane up the hillside. 21 of 53

23 AREA 5: Chalk Downland Location This area comprises two discrete areas of the AONB 5A The West Wiltshire Downs 5B The Southern Downland Belt Summary Large scale open 19 th and 20 th century fields the boundaries of which often cut across the prevailing topography. These were created from vast areas of former downlands. The southern downland belt has discrete areas of older or contrasting land use within it, including parkland at Kingston Lacy, Wimborne St Giles, Gunville and Eastbury Park, and pre 1800 fields at Martin, Chettle and Handley Green. Pockets of open downland survive, notably at Martin Down. Both areas have extremely rich archaeological records. The West Wiltshire Downs is notable for its Iron Age and Romano British archaeology, while the southern downland belt is famous for its spectacular Prehistoric archaeology, including the Dorset Cursus. Both areas are associated with historic road junctions. The areas are crisscrossed by Roman roads and other ancient routeways such as droveways. There is a planned Medieval village at Hindon. 22 of 53

24 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The western edge of the West Wiltshire Downs was within the boundary of Selwood Forest. Grovely Forest was a small Medieval hunting forest which was also its own ancient parish. The ancient parishes in the West Wiltshire Downs are comprised of a series of thin and linear parishes running north-south. The spine of the Downs forms the boundary which separates these parishes. The Southern Downland Belt is crossed by the ancient county boundaries of Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire which deviates from the course of the modern boundary. The ancient parish boundaries across the Southern Downland Belt are irregular in shape and become increasingly large to the south. Those on the western side of the area incorporate a slice of downland, and the Stour Valley which is beyond the border of the AONB. The line of the Saxon Bokerley Dyke runs north-south across the area, marking the boundary of Saxon influence in the 6 th century. The Bankes family have had a considerable influence on the landscape in the vicinity of Kingston Lacy in the Post Medieval period. Fields in the Landscape There is also a wealth of dated and undated field systems and many undated linear features and enclosures. In Wiltshire transcriptions from aerial photographs illustrates the density of these features. The western edge of the West Wiltshire Downs is marked by strip lynchets above Mere, these are visually dominant feature in the landscape. This downland is characterised by blocks of large modern fields and regular grid like 19 th century parliamentary and planned enclosure which have over the last 200 years divided up and enclosed great swathes of formerly open downland. This leaves a homogenous landscape. In the Southern Downland Belt this wider pattern is punctuated by blocks of Pre 1800 fields at Martin, in the vicinity of Chettle, and Handley Green. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape There are no historic parks and gardens on the West Wiltshire Downs. There are locally listed parks and gardens across the Southern Downland Belt but no Medieval Deer parks. Pockets of parkland dominate areas within the wider Southern Downland Belt including: The parkland and woodland at Kingston Lacy surrounded by a pattern of smaller pre 1800 fields The parkland and Brownian ride at Wimborne St Giles The historic house and garden at Gunville and Eastbury Park Hunting Landscapes 23 of 53

25 On the West Wiltshire Downs the eastern side is within the ancient forest of Grovely. The Southern Downland Belt is nearly wholly within the ancient hunting grounds of the Cranborne Chase, with the exception of the far south-eastern edge, which falls within the Medieval Badbury Forest. It comprises the vast majority of the outer bounds of the Chase. Industry in the Landscape N/A Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence There are relic rifle ranges and practice trenches associated with Martin Down. The large Military Camp at Blandford is located in the south west corner of the Southern Downland Belt. Landscapes of Prehistory These areas have an extremely rich archaeological record, including nationally important Prehistoric archaeology. On the Southern Downland Belt this includes a nationally important complex of Prehistoric monuments centred on the Dorset Cursus and including Henges, Neolithic round and long barrows and mortuary enclosures, and several important Prehistoric settlements. Long barrows are distributed along the north side of the West Wiltshire Downs above the Wylye Valley and across the Southern Downland Belt. There is a causewayed enclosure on the western side of the West Wiltshire Downs at Whitesheet Hill as well as an Iron Age hillfort. There is a very dense distribution of Bronze Age round barrows especially on the western edge of the West Wiltshire Downs and across the Southern Downland Belt. There is a high density of Mesolithic, Neolithic and Bronze Age finds between Grovely and Great Ridge on the West Wiltshire Downs, as well as large numbers of finds which have been collected on the Southern Downland Belt through fieldwalking, especially associated on the clay with flints. Late 20 th Century activity in the Landscape There is a golf course at Ashley Wood on the Southern Downland Belt Legacy of Archaeological Discovery On the West Wiltshire Downs Wiliiam Cunnington ( ) and his patron Richard Colt Hoare, who lived at Stourhead in Wiltshire, excavated many barrows systematically, recording their findings and using stratigraphy to distinguish between primary and secondary burials. Archaeological investigations by Wessex Archaeology in 1989 preceded the laying of a pipeline in the northern half of the AONB. This includes investigation of the Neolithic Causewayed Enclosure on Whitesheet Hill. The 18 th century antiquarian William Stukely features several Dorset monuments on the Southern Downland Belt, including the Ackling Dyke, in his book Itenerarium Curiosum. The same area was a focus of interest for General Pitt Rivers in the 19 th century. 24 of 53

26 The Southern Downland Belt remains a focus for study in the 20 th century. Systematic excavations are undertaken by R C Clay of the Iron Age settlements of the Cranborne Chase in the 1920s. Aerial photographic survey of archaeology centred on Bokerley Dyke undertaken by the Royal Commission for Historic Monuments in the early 1990s (now subsumed by English Heritage). Research project, led by Richard Bradley, John Barrett and Martin Green, initially focused on excavations of the Bronze Age site at South Lodge Camp before widening its scope to look at the social development of monuments and landscape of the Cranborne Chase from the Neolithic to the Iron Age. Since this project Martin Green has continued his investigation of the prehistoric and historic landscape surrounding his farm, and continues to conduct regular fieldwalking, survey and excavations. Nationally Designated Heritage There are a very high number and density of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (317) compared with other areas. Over half of these are at high risk (178). The majority of SAMs in this area are under threat from arable clipping and ploughing, although scrub and tree growth and vehicle erosion also has a part to play. There are 315 listed buildings. These are associated with the historic settlements or farms but a significant number are also milestones and boundaries features. There are 3 registered parks and gardens. Open Land Pockets of former downland survive, notably in the semi-enclosed escarpments of the western edge of the West Wiltshire Downs and at the nature reserve of Martin Down. Unimproved grassland is also semi-enclosed with fencing on steep slopes and at the edge of combes. Routeways in the Landscape The West Wiltshire Downs is crossed by two major roads. The A303 runs east-west across the area and before it was widened was the line of the former 18 th century turnpike. Several milestones representing this former history survive. The A350 is on the western side of the Downs and runs northsouth. This was also a former turnpike road. The junction between the A350 and the A303 at Willoughby Hedge was also an important post Roman meeting point of ways, though the modern junction has transformed the character of the area. There are few modern roads leading off the A303 and only one leading North to the Wylye Valley. There is, however, a network of north-south bridleways and footpaths which run through Great Ridge and Grovely Wood. The eastwest routes represent ancient track ways, including the Harrow Way, and there are more tracks to the north running into the Wyle Valley. These represent survivals of a much larger number of possible routes across the formerly open downland. On the western edge of the West Wiltshire Downs there is a more complex network of footpaths leading to the Deverill Valley. A Roman road leads east-west across the spine of the West Wiltshire Downs. In contrast there is only one major road across the Southern Downland Belt the modern day A354 this did not become a major highway until it was 25 of 53

27 turnpiked in the 18 th century. It appears that during the Medieval period the main routeways from Salisbury passed to the south east via Cranborne and Wimborne, circumnavigating the main area of the Cranborne Chase. One ancient trackway crosses the eastern edge of the area, known as the Cloven Way, running south from Salisbury through Breamore, Downton and Odstock. A small section of the A354 has been dualled in the late 20 th century. Roads strike off from the A354 into valley systems. There is only one main road northward leading into the wooded heartland of the Cranborne Chase, running through Sixpenny Handley which was also a former turnpike. This ran parallel with another turnpike through Chettle, which is a minor road today. These join together south of Wyn Green. The network of paths and bridleways across the Southern Downland Belt are fairly straight often running parallel to each other. There is a more complex system of bridleways in the vicinity of Pentridge and Martin running parallel to each other between areas of fossilised Medieval strip fields. There is one relic military line on the Southern Downland Belt the Blandford Camp line. This was a branch railway from the Somerset and Dorset Railway to take personnel to the camp from Blandford Forum during the First World War. The line of this railway can be traced as a cutting. The Roman road between Badbury Rings and Old Sarum, known as the Ackling Dyke, is a highly legible feature in the landscape and is a Scheduled Ancient Monument along much of its length. Badbury Rings is also an important landscape feature not just as an Iron Age Hillfort but as a major Roman road junction and a focus for Roman settlement. This former road is either bridleway or footpath along its length, as well as a short stretch of the A354 near Pentridge, which was also a former turnpike. In addition part of the B3081 north of Ashmore traces the course of the former Roman road northwards from Badbury Rings. However this heritage is much less legible in the landscape due in part to topography, and the lack of obvious continuation of the feature. Settlement in the Landscape There are several high status Roman buildings on the Southern Downland Belt, with other Roman settlement being associated with the former Roman Roads on the western and southern edges of the area. There has been a shift in settlement on the West Wiltshire Downs. The higher ground along the spine of the Downs was the focus for settlement during the Iron Age and Romano-British period. This legacy is still visible in a series of impressive earthworks and field systems. In the post Roman period settlement shifted to the north into the Wylye Valley and southwards to sit in the southern dip slope of the downs at the head of the Nadder tributaries. Chilmark is an example of a village which follows this pattern. Hindon is the only village not to follow this pattern, forming a distinctive planned Medieval town with its regular plan of burbage plots. Present day settlement in the West Wiltshire Downs is a dispersed pattern of a few pre 1800 hamlets and farm complexes, with larger villages on its southern edge. There is no settlement on the western escarpment due to the steep topography, but this area is intimately related to settlement on the Kilmington terrace to the east. The settlement on the open areas of the West Wiltshire Downs is formed of red brick and flint, with the villages often using Chilmark Stone, with thatch, slate and local clay tiles for roofing materials. There are a string of deserted Medieval settlements across the northern edge of the Southern Downland Belt. 26 of 53

28 The Southern Downland Belt has a slightly denser settlement pattern but is still sparsely populated compared to other Historic Landscape Character Areas in the AONB. The settlement pattern is of scattered farm and nucleated settlements such as Sixpenny Handley, especially along its northern side, and linear settlements, such as Martin, at the far end the of winterbournes. These settlements have expanded in the 20 th century. There has also been an infilling of isolated farms and settlements in the 20 th century. Settlement is still notably absent from the far south and east of the area. Since the Prehistoric period settlement seems to have gravitated from downland areas into river valleys. There is archaeological evidence for Bronze Age and Iron Age settlements on the higher areas of the Southern Downland Belt. Buildings in the Southern Downland Belt tend to be constructed from white render and cob or brick, with thatch being a common building material. Fire has had a great influence on the settlements in both areas with both Hindon and Sixpenny Handley having to undergo major rebuilding in the 18 th and 19 th centuries respectively. There are 6 Conservation Areas all on the southern downland belt apart from Hindon and Chilmark on the West Wiltshire downs. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape There has been a gradual increase in the number of small linear and rectangular plantations especially along the northern edge of the West Wiltshire Downs and the southern and northern edges of the Southern Downland Belts. Noticeable losses of woodland have occurred on the West Wiltshire Downs around Great Wood, Grovely Wood, Pertwood and Upper Pertwood and on the Southern Downland Belt around Chetterwood, and in the vicinity of Pimperne Wood. Across the West Wiltshire Downs there is small scale scattered woodland leading to a feeling of exposure and expanse across the entire landscape. the sparse hedgerows and copses shelter some extraordinarily large ash boles, ancient thorns and very occasionally a pollarded oak or even a yew. The years AD saw very little woodland established across the West Wiltshire Downs, except where the Fonthill Woodlands overlap from the Greensand Hills. Twentieth century woodland frequently occurs elsewhere across the downs, either as small farm woods or geometric conifer plantations. Many of the smaller conifer plantations have broadleafed species in their centre, being planted as game coverts. Copses and clumps of trees are a particularly distinctive feature of the downland landscape, crowning a number of hilltops. Pockets of woodland occur on the Southern Downland Belt corresponding to the loamy brown earth soils that overlie the clay-with-flint drift deposits. The landscape is more wooded towards the valleys and to the west. Small blocks of pre 1750 woodland are widely scattered across the Southern Downland Belt. Veteran woodlands overlap the southern boundary of the Character Area from the Dorset heaths and close to the Hampshire-Wiltshire border is Great Yews, which represents one of the two best examples of natural yew woodland in Wiltshire. 18 th and 19 th bentury plantings are particularly evident in and around the parklands and planned landscapes of Kingston Lacy and Wimborne St Giles. Coniferous woodland blocks established in the 20 th century as game coverts and shelter belts are similar to those found on the West Wiltshire Downs are a common feature of the area forming geometric edges. Isolated veteran trees can be found in chalk pits and hidden within 27 of 53

29 conifer game coverts. The majority of ancient and veteran trees will be found in boundary features, particularly the ancient hedgerows and roadsides. The longevity of the boundaries in this area, some dating back to the Bronze Age, make the hedgerows and woodland strips associated with the boundaries. such as the Shire Rack, fruitful areas to search for ancient and veteran trees of all species. 28 of 53

30 Location AREA 6: Great Ridge and Grovely Woods The woodlands of Great Ridge and Grovely Woods on higher ground on the West Wiltshire Downs. This Historic Landscape Character Area is surrounded by HLCA 5 Chalk Downland Summary The ancient woodlands of Grovely and Great Ridge, marked by a high occurrence of conifer plantations. Roman road crossing east west across the woodland Woodland divided into blocks by woodland rides and grid like forestry tracks. Areas of historic woodland clearance. Iron Age and Romano British earthworks on the woodland fringe. Medieval hunting forest of Grovely and the ancient parish boundary of Grovely. Continuity of land holding in Grovely Wood. 29 of 53

31 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The greater extent of Grovely Wood was within one ancient parish. This parish boundary has never been surveyed. Influence of Shaftesbury Abbey pre reformation, and the Earls of Pembroke post reformation, who owned Grovely Wood. The village of Great Wishford still celebrate Oak Apple Day on May 29 th an ancient custom where the people of the village enforce their rights of estover (gathering dead wood) in Grovely Wood The spine of Great Ridge marks the boundary between several ancient parishes which runs through the woodland. Fields in the Landscape On the edges of the woodland aerial photographs have identified extensive areas of ancient field systems these probably continue into the woodland. There are several large open spaces in Grovely which were created prior to AD Great Ridge and Grovely Wood feature 19 th and 20 th fields around their edges which enclosed formerly open downland. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape There is evidence for a former Medieval deer park in both Grovely and Great Ridge but the archaeological evidence for these is uncertain. Hunting Landscapes Grovely Wood is a former Medieval hunting forest. Industry in the Landscape N/A Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration & Defence N/A Landscapes of Prehistory High density of Mesolithic, Neolithic and Bronze Age findspots in Grovely Wood and on the eastern edge of Great Ridge. Iron Age and Romano British settlements and hillfort associated with edge of woodland. Cluster of Bronze Age round barrows on edge of forest. Late 20 th Century Activity in the Landscape N/A 30 of 53

32 Legacy of Archaeological Discovery N/A Nationally Designated Heritage There are only a few Scheduled Ancient Monuments (7) within the woodland areas. Over half of these are at high risk (4). The majority of SAMs in this area are under threat from tree cover and past woodland planting. There are 3 listed buildings. These are a lodge associated with the former hunting rights of Grovely Forest and boundary stones associated with the turnpikes. There are no registered parks and gardens. Open Land Historically woodland surrounded by vast areas of open downland. Routeways in the Landscape Both woods are crisscrossed by a grid of forestry tracks. Grovely Wood has a great avenue of tree forming a drive along its east west axis is a bridleway along its entire length. Eastern edge of Great Ridge clipped by the A303, a former turnpike road. Listed milestones survive charting this former history. Both woods are crossed east west by a Roman road though this does not form a public Right of Way. The woods are crossed north south at irregular angles by access routes leading across the downland to the south and north into the Wylye Valley. Grovely is bounded to the south and north by several ancient droveways. Settlement in the Landscape Focus for settlement in Iron Age and Romano-British periods, large scale earthworks which feature Banjo Enclosures are present, e.g. Stockton. There is no settlement on Great Ridge. Grovely Wood is associated with little settlement with the exception of isolated farms and lodges. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape Grovely Wood and Great Ridge has a high occurrence of conifer plantations. Grovely Wood and Great Ridge are two extensive areas of woodland. associated with elevated plateaux where the chalk is capped by clay-withflints. Both were present prior to 1750 and were part of the Medieval landscape along with associated open habitats. They are now mosaics of deciduous, coniferous and mixed woodland with fragments of pre 1750 woodland around their edges. Twentieth century planting with coniferous blocks inside these woodlands replaced the oak ash stands and has resulted in the coniferous canopy standing above the broadleaf canopy, altering the skyline, hardening it against the cloudscapes and removing the seasonal changes that occur with a deciduous treeline. Ancient trees are common. 31 of 53

33 AREA 7: Parliamentary Patterns on the Fovant Terrace and between Chalbury and Woodlands Location These two areas are characterised by their similar current historic landscape character. Area 7A is located on the greensand Fovant Terrace between the escarpment to the south and the Vale of Wardour to the north. Area 7B is located in the south side of the AONB on a low area of upper chalk between Chalbury and Woodlands. Summary Areas dominated by grid like regular parliamentary enclosure which has obscured previous land uses. Both areas have historic turnpikes at their heart, with the parliamentary fields being spread out either side. The Fovant Terrace is associated with the remains of the former military camps stretching between Sutton Mandeville and Fovant and with views of the chalk badges on the escarpment. The area between Chalbury and Woodlands is associated with the great Neolithic henge at Knowlton and associated monuments. 32 of 53

34 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The ancient parish boundaries on the Fovant Terrace form a north south slice across the escarpment but these are less elongated and more irregular than those related to the chalk river valleys. The ancient parishes of the area between Chalbury to Woodlands are much more irregular. Fields in the Landscape This area is characterised by grid like regular 19 th century parliamentary enclosure which obscures earlier land use. These are the two areas of the AONB in which the imposition of parliamentary enclosures has been most rigorously applied. This is interspersed with 20 th century fields which have modified the parliamentary pattern. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape N/A Hunting Landscapes The Fovant escarpment is on the edge of the outer bounds of the Cranborne Chase. The Chalbury to Woodlands area is outside the outer bounds. Industry in the Landscape N/A Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence Several temporary camps were constructed during World War One to along the Fovant Terrace between Barford St Martin to Swallowcliffe. These were served by a military railway. There are signs of those camps even now, almost 90 years later. From the chalk escarpment particularly when the sun casts long shadows, marks on the ground where the camps once stood can be discerned along with the track which the railway took. The Fovant Cap Badges are also intended to be viewed from the Terrace (see HLCA 8). Landscapes of Prehistory The known archaeological record is dominated by the nationally important Prehistoric complex at Knowlton, including several henges and a large number of round barrows. 33 of 53

35 Fieldwalking has uncovered clusters of Prehistoric finds on the greensand of the Fovant Terrace. Late 20 th Century Activity in the Landscape N/A Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Bournemouth University, led by John Gale, has undertaken a programme of excavation at the Neolithic henge at Knowlton and of a group of Bronze Age barrows at High Lea Farm, Hinton Martell. Nationally Designated Heritage There are a high number and high density of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (23) compared with other areas. These are concentrated in area 7B with only one SAM in 7A. These represent the cluster of sites associated with the Knowlton Prehistoric Complex centred on Knowlton Henge. 21 of these are at high risk and are under threat from ploughing. There are only 18 listed buildings, a low number compared to other areas in the AONB. These are associated with the historic farms or represent milestones or boundary markers. There are no registered park and gardens. Open Land N/A Routeways in the Landscape In both areas the parliamentary grid runs either side of an important historical turnpike. The Fovant Terrace is crossed north south by a network of parallel footpaths and bridleways which lead south onto the escarpment and connect with the ancient droveway the Salisbury Way and northwards into the dense network of routeways in the Vale of Wardour. Between Chalbury and Woodlands roads run off at right angles from the turnpike. There are also a few linear footpaths. Settlement in the Landscape Settlement is sparse on the Fovant Terrace with stone farm buildings and modern farms. The area between Chalbury to Woodlands is also devoid of major settlements. There are clusters of settlements at the crossroads with the turnpike road, for example at the Horton Inn. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape Belts of natural ash woodland occur along the boundary with the chalk escarpment Occasional mixed woodland game covert blocks planted at right angles to the escarpment interrupt the smooth, open character of the terrace 34 of 53

36 Generally, tree cover is quite even but sparse towards the west of the area and, combined with the more undulating landform, provides a greater sense of enclosure. Occasional small blocks of veteran woodland also remain. 35 of 53

37 AREA 8: Chalk Escarpments Location These three areas all form the steep escarpment edges of chalk downland. Area 8A is the east-west Fovant escarpment Area 8B is the east-west Melbury to Winkelbury Hill escarpment Area 8C is the wider north-south Melbury to Blandford escarpment Summary A notable feature is their steep sloping topography. They are primarily formed of semi-enclosed chalk grassland. The Melbury to Blandford escarpments is less steep in some locations and is wider and demonstrates a greater range of historic landscape types. Notable features are the Fovant Chalk Badges Only area 8C is settled and even then sparsely. The settlement focus is along the lower undulating slopes of the escarpment and forms a series of nucleated pre 1800 settlements. Veteran woodland is located within the combes of the escarpment and plantations are often situated along their crests. Ancient routeways run across the edge of the escarpments. These are connected to the wider landscape by parallel droveways and bridleways. The known archaeological record is dominated by prehistoric archaeology including Bronze Age round barrows and Iron Age hillforts. 36 of 53

38 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the Sub Headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The ancient shire boundary crosses the top of the Melbury Abbas escarpment. All the escarpments are subdivided by cross dykes. The Fovant escarpment marks the northern boundary of the Chalke Hundred. The droveway along the top of the Fovant escarpment forms an east west parish boundary of ancient parishes which slice across the landscape, In contrast the Melbury to Winklebury escarpment is in the centre of large parishes which are much more irregular in shape. The Melbury to Blandford escarpment is divided into long thin east-west parishes which take a slice of valley, escarpment and downland. Shaftsbury Abbey exerted a great influence over the northern half of the Melbury escarpment in the Medieval period. Fields in the Landscape The known archaeological record is dominated by the remains of field systems on the escarpment edges, including strip lynchets The tops of the escarpment are formed characterised by a mixture of 20 th century and 19 th century fields which enclosed the former open downland. The escarpments themselves are semi-enclosed by fences The Melbury to Blandford escarpments include pockets of parliamentary enclosure and parkland. Some of the 20 th century fields present also contain traces of earlier fields. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape There is one 18 th century historic park at Iwerne Minster. Hunting Landscapes The chalk escarpments are within the Medieval hunting area of the Cranborne Chase. There tops are planted with rectangular game cover crops. Industry in the Landscape The escarpment faces are dotted with small chalk quarries. There is a stone quarry at Melbury Abbas. There are battery chicken sheds on the Fovant escarpment. Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration & Defence Notable features are the Fovant Chalk Badges. These form the largest group of chalk figures in the UK and are both a SAM and a military monument. 37 of 53

39 Landscapes of Prehistory Associated with a back ground scatter of Prehistoric flint tools. There are two Neolithic long barrows on the Fovant escarpment and one on the Melbury to Winkelbury Hill Escarpment. High concentration of visually prominent round barrows along the top of the escarpments. There are less round barrows at the southern end of the Melbury to Blandford escarpment. Iron Age hillforts occur on the Fovant escarpment and the Melbury to Winkelbury Hill Escarpment. The former is also associated with archaeological evidence for Iron Age settlement. Late 20 th Century activity in the Landscape There is a private airfield on the Compton Abbas escarpment. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery The Fovant Badges Association are active in the management of the Fovant Chalk Badges. Nationally Designated Heritage There are a high number and high density of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (62) compared with other areas. The majority of these are located along the Fovant Escarpment. 21 of these are at high risk. The SAMs in this area are under threat from arable ploughing, vehicle damage, and scrub and tree growth. There are 58 listed buildings a medium number compared to other areas in the AONB. These are associated with the historic settlements located along the bottom of the Melbury to Blandford escarpment There is 1 registered park and garden. Open Land These escarpments are characterised by unimproved chalk grassland which has been subdivided with fences running up the escarpment face and fencing in the top and bottom. These are an ecologically important resource. A larger area of open chalk grassland exists at Fontmell and Melbury Down and a smaller outlier at Wyn Green, all of which are in National Trust ownership. These preserve the character of what was once a much more common historic land type. Routeways in the Landscape Running east west along the top of the Fovant escarpment is a byway forming the route of an ancient droveway known as the Salisbury Way. This was turnpiked in the 18 th century but was superseded by the turnpike along the modern A30 on the terrace to the north. The droveway is joined at right angles by bridleways and byways providing access from the downland parishes to the south and clay vale to the north. The Melbury to Winkelbury escarpment also has an ancient droveway along its length the Ox Drove. This is joined at right angles by footpaths and bridleways from the clay vale to the north, and paths leading into the wooded downland of the heart of the Chase to the south. 38 of 53

40 In contrast the north south Melbury to Blandford escarpment is bounded by two modern roads, both former turnpikes, running between Blandford and Salisbury. One on the higher ground to the east and one on the valley floor to the south. These are joined bye east west parallel roads, tracks and footpaths. These are much more numerous than on the other escarpments. Settlement in the Landscape There is no settlement on the Fovant escarpment and Wyn Green Escarpment. Only area 8C is settled and even then sparsely. The settlement focus is along the lower undulating slopes of the escarpment and forms a series of nucleated pre 1800 settlements. Building materials are commonly greensand and red brick, with estate style dominating around Iwerne Minister. There are also Early Medieval finds from Compton Abbas. The expansion into downland areas is also characterised by the presence of a series of 19 th century farms on the top of the escarpments There are three Conservation Areas. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape Veteran woodland is located within the combes of the escarpment and plantations are often situated along their crests. On the Melbury to Blandford escarpment there seems to have been a much more stable pattern of woodland cover than seen in other areas of the AONB. However the patterns in the retraction and expansion of scrub, a characteristic feature of these escarpments, are unknown. Woodland is particularly characteristic of the Melbury to Winkelbury Hill Escarpment. The predominantly broadleaved, 18 th and 19 th century, woodlands are found on the Berwick St John Alvediston north facing escarpment. There is a good deal of older, possibly Medieval in origin, woodland locally named ivers that follow the contours in a sinuous form, and this is most apparent where they line the base of the escarpments, in some places stretching to mid-slope. They are a significant landscape feature marking the transition from the steep downland slopes to the intensively cultivated land below. On the Melbury to Blandford escarpment woodlands dating before 1750 are scattered throughout the area, but particularly at the base of the escarpment, while woodlands established in the 19 th century or later tend to be on the top of the slope. Most of the woodland is broadleaved; the steepest slopes are often covered by areas of thorn and hazel scrub woodland. 39 of 53

41 Location AREA 9: Vale of Wardour This area comprises the Vale of Wardour in the centre of the AONB. The River Nadder flows west to east across the area towards the Avon Summary This area is characterised by a mixed pattern of Historic Landscape Character Types which are arranged in a mosaic across the area. This includes historic fields dating to before Common land survives around Semley and other common land to the south has scrubbed up. There is an ancient and dense pattern of routeways. The ruins of Wardour Castle are an important tourist attraction. There are many historic parks and gardens as well as former deer parks. The Nadder has relic water meadows along its length. The area is crossed by the railway. Stone quarries are an important historic feature. 40 of 53

42 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the Sub Headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The majority of this area was within the Dunworth Hundred. The influence of the estates on this area is very notable. This includes ecclesiastical landowners such as Shaftesbury and Wilton Abbey in the Medieval period. This legacy is represented by the great tithe barn at Tisbury and the remains of a knights templar preceptory at Ansty. Post reformation major magnates such as the Lords Arundell, Earls of Pembroke and the Beckfords controlled much of the area and this legacy is legible by the influence of estate style and the large numbers of grand houses and parks. The ancient parishes in the area are irregular and small. They are more rectangular on the northern side. Teffont marks the western boundary of Saxon influence in the 6 th century AD. Fields in the Landscape Some ancient fields have been mapped from aerial photographs but these are in no way the same density as on the downland areas. Pre 1800 fields dominate and there is a notable pattern of small curving irregular fields interspersed with copses in the west. These fields have undergone little modification. The pre 1800 fields are interspersed with small blocks of more regular 18 th and 19 th century fields and less regular 20 th century fields. Water meadows are a notable feature of the valley bottom. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape Parkland is a notable feature, including nationally registered landscaped large scale parks such as Wardour Park, Pythouse, and Dinton Park, and small scale locally listed parks and gardens such as at Teffont Evias. There are traces of Medieval deer parks and Post Medieval deer parks All of the great houses and parks remain in private ownership apart from Phillips House in Dinton Park, which is owned by the National Trust. Hunting Landscapes It forms the northern boundary of the Cranborne Chase, however the area to the north, outside the Chase, demonstrates little difference in historic land use suggesting on the very edge of the influence of Chase law. Often great concentrations of Deer Parks. Industry in the Landscape The valley has small scale industrial features including a quarry for Chilmark stone and industrial estates. The latter often reuse brown field sites, such as former military land, brick works or railway sidings. 41 of 53

43 Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence The ruins of Wardour Castle are especially distinctive and form a tourist attraction in the area. Their ruined state is a legacy of the English Civil War. The military past of the valley is represented by the former military base near Chilmark and its associated transportation system. Landscapes of Prehistory There are a low number of Prehistoric sites, notable exceptions being three Iron Age hillforts. There are a few Bronze Age barrows on raised ground on the northern side. There is a record that the grotto at Old Wardour castle incorporated a Neolithic stone circle which was removed from another site. However fieldwalking has shown a high level of Prehistoric activity in the form of high densities of flint including Mesolithic and Neolithic finds. Bronze Age finds was much rarer. Late 20 th Century Activity in the Landscape There are two sewage works. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Archaeological Field Group of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society have undertaken excavations of a possible Roman road in Donhead St Mary in Nationally Designated Heritage There are a very low number and density of Scheduled Ancient Monuments (10) compared with other areas, representing the long duree of land use in this area obscuring earlier traces of archaeological sites. At least 1 of these is at high risk and 5 at medium risk. The majority of SAMs in this area are under threat from tree and scrub growth. There are 525 listed buildings a very high density and number compared to other areas in the AONB. These are associated with the historic settlements or estates. There are 5 Grade I listed buildings. There is 1 building on the English Heritage Buildings at risk register, a Grade II* chapel immediately to the north of Pythouse. There are 4 registered park and gardens. Open Land Common land survives around Semley, and other common land in the area has now become woodland. Some prairie fields on the northern edge of the area mark the location of formerly open downland. Routeways in the Landscape The area is characterised by a dense network of footpaths and winding lanes, sunken holloways and green lanes. The area is bounded to the north by the carriage road and to the south by the A30 both of which are former turnpikes. 42 of 53

44 A lost Roman road runs north-south through the area from Ludwell through the Donheads. The railway is a dominant feature running through the area which transformed the settlement. Settlement in the Landscape The known archaeological record is dominated by Mediaeval and Post Medieval sites, including settlements (farmsteads, shrunken and deserted villages) which cluster around Tisbury, moated manor houses, and former ecclesiastical sites. Along the northern and southern edge of the area there is archaeological evidence for Early Medieval settlement. There is a dense pattern of nucleated settlement deriving from the Medieval period. This can be split into five main groupings 1. Linear settlement below the Fovant Terrace, hidden in combes such as Ansty, Swallowcliiffe and Fovant. 2. Scattered and dispersed settlement through the Donheads. 3. Settlement along the north of the area at the head of feeder valleys leading down to the Nadder including Teffont Magna and Fonthill Bishop. 4. The nucleated settlement of Tisbury with potentially Saxon routes. The original focus of settlement was the top of the high street and the Medieval manor to the east. This is surrounded by a network of nucleated hamlets. 5. Pattern of common edge settlement in the area around Semley. New 19 th century settlement, with indicative names such as Newtown infilled this pattern. The major focus of settlement growth in the 20 th century has been focused on the village of Tisbury, which is the largest settlement in the AONB, and to a lesser extent Dinton. Another distinctive feature is that the buildings are commonly constructed of Chilmark stone with clay roof tiles and thatch, but wooden framed thatched cottages are also common. The influence of the great estates on vernacular architecture is especially notable in villages such as Fonthill Gifford. There are 15 Conservation Areas demonstrating the high quality of the built environment. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape Ancient woodland is dispersed throughout the area and is interspersed with more recent plantations of conifers, especially along the greensand terrace along the edge of the area. The area around Fonthill forms a sub area with its distinctive large 19 th century plantation of conifers on the Fonthill Abbey estate. Most of the woodland was present prior to 1750 and is either broadleaved or mixed in character. The edges of the Vale have seen piecemeal loss of woodland along its edges, especially in the area to the north of Semley Hill, in the area near Summerleaze, at Teffont Evias and at Hardene Wood. Woodland creation has also occurred, albeit at a much smaller scale, and mostly abutting or adjacent to existing woodlands. Areas of woodland vary both in terms of size and shape with larger woodland swathes occurring at the base of the Greensand Hills such as south of Fonthill Abbey Wood and at Compton and Fovant Woods. Woodland 43 of 53

45 occurring to the west of the character area, on the Kimmeridge Clay geology, is generally broad leaved, smaller, more fragmented and of a loose and sinuous nature in comparison with the more regular, geometric form of woodland occurring to the east of Tisbury. A belt of oak woods, some of which have been converted to conifer production, occur on the greensand hills to the north of Shaftesbury spanning the AONB boundary around Motcombe and Sedgehill. They can be seen in the AONB at East and West Knoyle, Semley and the Donheads. Much of the woodland around East and West Knoyle was present prior to 1750 and has been complimented by the Woodland Trust plantation at Mackintosh- Davidson Wood. The pre-1750 woodland around Semley has been added to as the commonland has scrubbed up and formed natural woodland. There are hill top woodlands around Donhead St Mary, and on the slopes along the southern side of the Vale of Wardour. 19 th century plantations around Fonthill. These woodlands are a significant part of the tree cover of this area and their comparatively recent establishment hides the fact that they were established amongst a well wooded landscape, as attested to by the presence of many ancient hedgerow trees and artefacts such as woodbanks. Woodlands associated with large country houses and historic parkland are also a feature, for example at Pythouse and Phillips House. Shelterbelts occur within this character area and large in-field trees, particularly open-grown oaks and alder along the course of the River Nadder, maintain the wooded character across the farmland. The Vale of Wardour and Nadder Valley holds an internationally important aggregation of ancient and veteran trees. The great oaks of Pythouse Park, the limes around Wardour, the apple and pear trees in and around the villages and the hedgerow ash along the Nadder Valley are just a few examples. 44 of 53

46 AREA 10: Wooded Chalk Downland of the Cranborne Chase and Chetterwood Location The Chase Woodlands are centred on Tollard Royal Chetterwood is located near Witchampton to the west of the Allen Valley. Summary The Cranborne Chase wooded chalk downland forms the inner boundary of the Cranborne Chase hunting area, which was divided into a series of walks. Chetterwood is an outlying walk. Both areas have veteran woodland at their core. The ancient shire boundary crosses the Cranborne Chase wooded chalk downland. The Chase is also firmly associated with the legacy of the archaeologist Pitt Rivers. The woodlands are broken up by early woodland clearance and pre 1800 fields. Roman roads cross both areas. 45 of 53

47 Key Archaeological and Historic Characteristics For each of the sub headings below there is also a summary statement of this theme for the landscape of the Cranborne Chase and West Wiltshire Downs AONB as a whole. Ancient Boundaries and Land Ownership The Saxon boundary of Grims Ditch crosses the wooded downland of the Chase. The Wiltshire Dorset county boundary runs through the heart of the Chase. This ancient boundary is associated with gate place names demarking former crossing points on the boundary. Boundary between parishes runs east-west through the heart of woodland coinciding with the county boundary Shaftesbury Abbey exerted great influence in this area in the Medieval period. Post reformation five landowners vied for control of the area, the Frekes, the Arundel s, and the earls of Pembroke, Shaftesbury and Wilton. An ancient parish boundary meets in Chetterwood. Fields in the Landscape There is a high density of ancient field systems recorded in Wiltshire and a similar pattern can be assumed for Dorset. In both areas the woodland is interspersed with pre 1800 assarts and pre 1800 fields. They feature 19 th and 20 th fields around their edges which enclosed the formerly open downland and common land which they once abutted, and in the case of the Chase Woods replaced, large coppices which once infilled the woodland. Historic Parks and Gardens in the Landscape The wooded chalk downland is associated with a cluster of Medieval deer parks and Post Medieval parks. Rushmore Park and the Larmer Tree Gardens are associated with the heart of the wooded chalk downland. Hunting Landscapes The Cranborne Chase wooded chalk downland forms the inner boundary of the Cranborne Chase hunting area, which was divided into a series of walks. Chetterwood is an outlying walk. Industry in the Landscape N/A Landscapes of Militarism, Commemoration and Defence N/A 46 of 53

48 Landscapes of Prehistory Sites in the known archaeological record tend to be located outside, on the edge or in clearings associated with the Medieval woodland. The archaeological record here is quite rich and includes important Prehistoric sites, features and settlements, a large number of round barrows, and many undated linear features. There is a density of findspots outside the woodland. The round barrows are concentrated on the edge of the woodland blocks. The wooded chalk downland of the Cranborne Chase is associated with a cluster of Iron Age settlement and an Iron Age hillfort and one Bronze Age settlement. Many of the sites are associated with the legacy of Pitt Rivers. Late 20 th Century Activity in the Landscape A modern golf course has been created at Rushmore. Legacy of Archaeological Discovery Notable features are the archaeological sites associated with the legacy of General Pitt Rivers such as Woodcutts. Pitt Rivers is seen by many as a central figure in the development of archaeology. Excavations and writings of Heywood Sumner in the early 20 th century, a devoted follower of the General, who also focused his activities on the Cranborne Chase. The Dorset Natural History and Archaeological Society are currently undertaking a survey of the line of the historic county boundary. Nationally Designated Heritage There are 41 Scheduled Ancient Monuments. Just under half of these are at high risk (17). The SAMs in this area are under threat from a range of factors including arable ploughing, scrub encroachment, tree cover and past woodland planting. There are 69 listed bbuildings. On the wooded chalk downland these are associated with farmhouses, t registered parks and garden and the nucleated settlements such as Ashmore. In Chetterwood Walk these are associated with dispersed cottages and farm houses. There are 2 registered parks and gardens. Open Land The northern edge of the wooded chalk downland is associated with fenced areas of unimproved grassland and with a wider area of former downland now consisting of large ploughed fields. Former common land in the vicinity of Handley Green and Woodcutts was transformed into 20 th century settlement. Routeways in the Landscape The wooded chalk downland is associated with an irregular system of north south routeways, these funnel into key access routes, or pinch points, into the chase woodlands. This pattern has been infilled by modern permissive paths and Rights of Way along the county boundary and older 19 th century 47 of 53

49 enclosure roads running east west. The woods are crisscrossed by a network of forestry tracks There are only 3 north south roads across the Chase. The area is crossed by a north-south turnpike but no milestones are known to be associated with this route The area is bounded to the north by the ancient droveway known as the Ox Drove. Chetterwood is associated with a dense regular network of bridleways and the wood is laced with a network of tracks which are not public Rights of Way. Settlement in the Landscape Roman settlement is known in the vicinity of Tollard Royal. The wooded chalk downland is characterised by a low density pattern of scattered individual farmsteads and nucleated settlements. Some new settlements were created in the 19 th century but there has been little 20 th century addition. Buildings are commonly constructed of red brick and flint with white render, with thatch, clay and slate being used as roofing material. The influence of the Rushmore Estate can be felt at Tollard Royal. There are two Conservation Areas in the wooded chalk downland Chetterwood, in contrast, is associated with pre 1800 dispersed linear settlement in nucleated rows which was infilled with 19 th century settlement. There is a strong estate influence at Long Crichel. Woodland and Trees in the Landscape The core areas of veteran Medieval woodland surviving in the AONB associated with the Medieval hunting area of Cranborne Chase. The distinguishing feature of the character type is its woodland. In the wooded chalk downland there has been a large proportion of woodland loss and little woodland gain. This is most noticeable in the north east of the area between Chase Woods, Stonedown Wood and Vernditch Chase which at the beginning of the 19 th century were extensive areas of coppice. Irregular woodland clearance also occurred in the area to the south of Ashmore Wood with the creation of new fields in the 20 th century, though in this area these fields were interspersed by new smaller linear plantations. The area is exceptionally rich in ancient trees, coppices and significant hedgerow trees. In particular, the large field maples are characteristic of Cranborne Chase woodlands. Very large ash stools are found in the hedgerows and there are many grand beech trees, that were planted in the late 1700s and early 1800s in woodlands and copses. The history of Cranborne Chase can be seen in the older trees, such as the avenues of beech planted by General Augustus Pitt Rivers, the pollarded holly and other rideside trees that were lopped to provide winter deer forage and the ring beech plantation of the Shaftesbury Estate. The main body of woodland of the wooded chalk downland is around Rushmore and Tollard Royal Chetterwood associated with veteran woodland with old trees, semi-natural woodland species, coppice stands and wood banks. 48 of 53

50 AREA 11: Downland Hills Location One area in the southeast of the AONB to the west of Fordingbridge, cut by two chalk streams. Summary A mosaic of pre 1800 veteran woodland, pre 1800 fields and assarts interspersed with small parks. Ancient parish boundaries take an east west slice across the landscape. Concentration of Medieval deer parks. Concentration of historic parks and gardens. Roman villa at Rockborne which is open to the public. Prehistoric monument complex at Damerham. 49 of 53