The COALITION for ORCHID SPECIES PRESIDENT S MESSAGE

Transcription

1 May 2013 Meets every third Monday of the month The COALITION for ORCHID SPECIES PRESIDENT S MESSAGE at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Gardens Old Cutler Road Coral Gables, Florida We have made some changes to the newsletter to make it more germane to us south Florida orchid growers. We have replaced the AOS growing tips for the month with Dr. Motes what to do growing tips. We are also starting a series on Orchids diseases. We have a full line up for our Symposium. We will have Duncan Bass, Guillermo Salazar, Francisco Miranda of Miranda Orchids, Cordelia Head of J & L Orchids, and Dr. Jennifer Zettler. Fortickets see Erna Maxwell. Happy orchid growing, Lou Alan Koch owns and operates Gold Country Orchids where he specializes in miniature and compact Cattleya s. Alan started growing orchids in 1969 with 3 Cymbidiums given to him by an aunt. While in college, he became interested in other orchids and discovered many would grow outdoors in Southern California. He has moved five times as his orchid obsession has led to the need for more growing space. With the last move, he purchased 10 acres of land in Lincoln, California for his 300,000 orchids. He is recognized as an expert in the Brazilian Cattleya alliance and a trend setter in miniature Cattleya breeding. Alan has been published in the Orchid Digest, and the American Orchid Society magazines. He has also been published in the proceedings of the World Orchid Conference. He is an internationally known speaker. He is a past member of the AOS Judging Committee, and the Research Committee, as well as an Accredited Judge and is Vice-chair and Training Coordinator for the California Sierra Nevada Judging Center. Alan also served two terms on the Orchid Digest Executive Committee and Board of Directors, and is one of the current directors, as well as a Trustee for the AOS.

2 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 2 Bits and Pieces Does Your Orchid Need to be Repotted? May 2013 by Dr. Courtney Hackney, hackneau@comcast.net May is one of the busiest months for orchid hobbyists. There is still time to repot, fertilize and attend to orchid pests. Should I repot this orchid?, is a common question. Repotting is most critical and often hard for new hobbyists because it takes a while to learn how to do it properly and it s hard to determine if the orchid should be repotted. The tendency is to want to repot, especially when there are roots going everywhere and a growth is at the edge of the pot. Orchids hate to be repotted, so repotting should only be done when absolutely necessary. Just because an orchid is coming out of the pot is not a reason to repot. Some types of orchids, e.g. dendrobiums prefer to be pot bound and go downhill for a year or two when given plenty of space in a new pot. If you try to push a finger down into your orchid in a bark mix, is it difficult or does the medium yield easily? If it is relatively easy, the medium has degraded and you need to repot. If it is somewhere in between there may be a solution beyond repotting or not repotting. Hold the pot upside down being careful to hold the orchid itself in case the roots are not firmly attached to the pot. Use a jet of water and direct it at the top of the medium. Sometimes most of the degraded medium will flow from the pot leaving a mass of roots with just a few pieces of hard medium. If the roots are white and hard there is no need to remove the orchid. You can add medium, but do not damage roots as you work the new medium into the pot. I like to use puffed clay pebbles, which are round and easily flow into space between the roots without much effort. If you do this and find mushy roots the orchid needs to be repotted. Remember that the longer the time between repotting, the more strength your orchid gets and the better the flowers will be next time. Roots are the key to good flowers and repotting removes the majority of them.

3 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 3 Bits and Pieces There are many orchids sold now in sphagnum. This is a soft medium that tends to stay moist. Typically, phalaenopsis are sold in this medium, but I have seen just about every orchid group sold in it. It is rare for sphagnum to last more than a year. If you can easily pull small pieces of medium from the pot when you purchase it, you likely need to repot the orchid as soon as it finishes flowering. If you have a small collection, apply Nutricote now if you have not already done so. If you use a soluble fertilizer this is the time to be sure you water weakly, weekly. For cattleyas and other orchids with pseudobulbs, once new growths are mature, fertilizing is not as important, but right now, they are in the growth mode. Other genera, such as members of the vandaceous group, phalaenopsis, paphs, phrags and jewel orchids can be fertilized as long as it is warm. My preference is to use a balanced fertilizer with extra calcium and magnesium. Be careful not to use exotic fertilizers unless you know how it will affect the water ph. That is one of the reasons to recommend simple, slow release type fertilizers such as Nutricote. Insects also respond to warmer conditions and need to be watched carefully. If scale or thrips are discovered treat quickly before they spread. If just a few are found on one plant remove the orchid and use a fine jet of water to remove the problem, being sure the underside of leaves and rhizomes are washed. If possible, isolate the plant for a month or so and watch it carefully. In my greenhouse, the orchid is sprayed thoroughly and the bench where it was found is also drenched in an appropriate pesticide and the entire area watched through the summer. Over time, most of my insect problems have disappeared, so it is rare for the entire collection to be treated. This is also the time of year when snails and slugs seem to come from nowhere. Actually, they have been there all along, but the cool temperatures limited their activity. Now, instead of just grazing the algae near the bottom of a pot they emerge and munch on new roots and growths. There are many treatments that work well for these pests depending on your growing area and conditions. Some of these are toxic to pets so read labels carefully.

4 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 4 Bits and Pieces COS Symposium-July, 21, 2013 Speakers Duncan Bass- Native Orchids of the US Virgin Islands. Guillermo Arturo Salazar- The Pollination of Bulbophyllums Francisco Miranda of Miranda Orchids- Rupicolous Orchids Cordelia Head of J & L Orchids- Miniature Members of the Oncidium Alliance Dr. Jennifer Zettler- Pestiferous scales found on Florida's rarest epiphytic orchids

5 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 5 Bits and Pieces 1.May: Alan Koch TBA 2.June: Jill Godfrey TBA 3. July: Bernard Lavaud TBA 4. August: Jim Watts Tolumnia species or leafless orchids 5. September: Guillermo Salazar Orchids of El Salvador 6. October: Auction 7. November: Claude Hamilton TBA

6 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 6 Pinalia rubifera (J. J. Sm.) V. Agustin, comb. nov. Eria rubifera J.J.Sm., 1920 Rediscovery Eria rubifera Recognize from characteristic orchid have mainly wine-red colour. Lip with a half -round thickening on either side this mid lobe (Papilose). This characteristic uncommon in this genus in Sumatra. Diagnosis Draw lines by J. J. Smith in Icones Orchidacearum Malayensium I Tab. 49 III Basionym Eria rubifera J.J.Sm., Bull. Jard. Bot. Buitenzorg, III, 2: 56 (1920). Specimen Eria rubifera from Gayo Lues regency, Aceh, Northen Sumatra. Recently properly genus Pinalia. Revision genus It is to be wise follow improvement genus in taxonomy, so better put this

7 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 7 species in properly genus as Pinalia rubiferum. Typus : Specimen collected from Gayo Lues plateau, Aceh Sumatra by Mr. Cipta Kurniawan, and flowering in cultivation at Blangkejeren, on 08 September 2012 and determine as eria rubifera on 09 September Basionym specimen collected from Talu, in the Mt. Ophir area and Lubuk Sikaping in west sumatra. Following J. J. Smith it is endemic. Homotypic synonyms : Eria rubifera J.J.Sm., Bull. Jard. Bot. Buitenzorg, III, 2: 56 (1920) Pinalia rubifera (J. J. Sm.) V. Agustin, 2012 Distribution: West Sumatra (Endemic) 42 SUM Lifeform: Epiphyte Credit : Photo by Mr. Cipta Kurniawan Determine ID Tun Jang Posted Posted 2nd November 2012 by Tun Jang Location: Gayo Lues Regency, Indonesia

8 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 8 Save the date November 14-16, for the Fall Members and Trustees meetings to be held at the new AOS home at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Gardens in Coral Gables, Florida. Plans are underway for speakers and a show and as information becomes available, I ll pass it along. Having the fall meeting there provides us all perfect opportunity to visit Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden - one of the top two tropical gardens in the world. Changes to Orchids production. Jim Watson, the long-time editor of Orchids, has left due to budgetary constraints of the AOS. Ron McHatton will be taking over Jim s editorial roles in conjunction with the Publications Committee. The Veitch Memorial Medal Recipients. Peter R. Furniss and Dr. Alec Pridgeon, Ph.D. were among six individuals honored with the The Veitch Memorial Medal by the Royal Horticulture Society. The Veitch Memorial Medal may be awarded annually to persons of any nationality who have made an outstanding contribution to the advancement of the art, science or practice of horticulture. For more information on the recipients and the award, see the AOS website. 13 th Supplemental Issue for The 2013 supplemental issue will be distributed with a Fall issue oforchids magazine and the topic is the genus Cattleya. Donations (however small - $2.00 minimum) are now being accepted on the AOS website. The publication of these supplemental issues is underwritten entirely by membership donations. Throughout the remainder of the spring and summer, I hope you all will support your local societies events and shows. Lynn Fuller, Chair AOS Affiliated Societies Committee

9 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 9 April Collage

10 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 10 Q. Air Conditioning My collection of orchids, including cymbidiums, cattleyas, dendrobiums and vandas, is situated in an area behind my home. Unfortunately, the air conditioning condenser unit is also in this area. My concern is that I live in Southern California and during the hot summer months when the unit is operating, it blows hot air around my orchids. My husband does not think this air is damaging but I fear that he is mistaken and it can harm or stunt their growth. What do you think? - Conchita Alejo A. I would try to shield the orchids from the blast of the air-conditioning condenser. Hot, and probably dry, air emanating from this source can do the orchids no good, especially in the already dry climate of Southern California's interior region. The additional stress that would place on the plants during the warm and dry summer months will result in poorer growth and flowering. - Ned Nash

11 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 11 May in your Orchid Collection May Climate Data Average high: 87.2 Average low: 72.0 Average mean: 79.6 Average rainfall: 5.52" May is a month of transition in South Florida. Early in the month we can expect the driest weather of the year. Because of the clarity of the air and lack of cloud cover, temperatures rise rapidly in the late morning and can reach the upper eighties or nineties by mid afternoon before cooling substantially in late afternoon. Fortunately, over night, radiant cooling rapidly dissipates the previous day's heat. May mornings are a delight, the wise orchidist rises early to enjoy them and to finish his chores before the heat sets in. Chief of these should be extensive dragging of hoses. May's wide temperature swings and dry air suit our orchids to a tee. New growths on sympodial orchids are developing apace and by continuing the careful watering practices of April (i.e. drenching them thoroughly with repeated applications of water to saturate their roots and potting media, then allowing them to dry to nearly 'hard' dry) we can launch them into the summer in vigorous, disease-free growth. Remember, this saturation can only be achieved with two or more soakings to the point of runoff spaced a few minutes apart. Merely holding the water on the plant extra long will not suffice. The water needs to slowly soak into the roots and media. Test the weight of a "benchmark" plant to be satisfied that it is sufficiently heavy to be totally soaked. The arid air of early May will quickly dry the foliage but the roots can draw on the deep reservoir of water that you have provided with this careful, complete watering. With the increased heat and light of May we do not want to put our orchids on too lean of a diet. Fertilize with up to 2 tsp. of per gal of water every week or so. Alternating this standard fertilizer with Epsom salts and potassium nitrate (at 1 tbs. each per gal.) is still a best practice during May. Always substitute fertilizer for a watering and apply like the water in two doses to the point of saturation. Never follow the widely stated but antiquated advice to "water before fertilizing". It's a receipt for over watering without any basis in logic or science. Now is also a good time to apply a soluble trace or micro element fertilizer. Follow the dilution rates on the package as mixtures and strengths differ. You can apply this in conjunction with the Epsom salts/potassium nitrate but never with the , or any other fertilizer containing phosphorus. In South Florida's highly alkaline water the phosphorus interacts with the other metallic elements, reducing the effectiveness of the trace elements. Potassium nitrate, , is the perfect companion to minor elements because it not only lacks phosphorus which would hinder the absorption of the trace elements but the nitrate nitrogen seems to enhance their uptake. May is still prime time for re-potting. With cattleyas, dendrobiums and other sympodials, the virtuous among us have long since finished this labor of love, but the majority of us are faced with the moral dilemma of doing the potting now or waiting until next year with the pseudo bulbs of our plants overhanging their pots and proclaiming to the world our sloth. The one instance, in which this dilemma must be resolved absolutely in favor of the plant, is when the medium has broken down in the pot. Decayed medium will encourage root rot to become stem rot which will pursue the rhizome even into those over arching bulbs. If in doubt, give the medium the "nose test". A pinch of medium taken from below the surface of the pot should smell "sweet". A sour smell or the odor of a pond bottom indicates medium that is broken down and must be replaced as soon as possible. The case in which this is almost universally true is with plants potted in sphagnum moss. Sphagnum simply will not last beyond one year (even under cover) in South Florida. As the vast majority of commercially produced Phalaenopsis are now grown in sphagnum, recently acquired plants MUST be re-potted annually. As most of the Phalaenopsis now will be finishing their flowers, May is a good time to get these plants right for the new year's growth. When repotting, one can, of course, choose a more durable media; rock, red wood chips or various mixtures and avoid this annual ritual. Choosing a more durable media will entail modifying one's watering schedule to accommodate the faster draining, quicker drying qualities of these harder substances. May is a great month for re-setting vandaceous orchids whose baskets have deteriorated or that have grown too tall to be easily managed. keikies (off-shoots) can be most safely removed now. In both cases choose the most durable containers for the plants so

12 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 12 they need not be disturbed for years. Teak or other hard wood baskets and clay pots last longest. Above all make amply sure that the plants are firmly fixed in their lodging. Vandaceous orchids, above all others, are intolerant of being loosely set. The very height of these plants act as a lever to keep them rocking unless we anchor them securely until their new roots affix themselves to the new containers. Stake and tie them securely until their abundant roots take over. Unsightly staking can then be removed. As we bask, lulled into complacency by the nearly ideal weather of early May, summer sometimes surprises us. Toward the middle or end of May, the weather in South Florida literally undergoes a sea change. The large continental weather patterns which have dominated our weather through the winter and early Spring give way to the tropics and the prevailing south easterly trade winds return us to the interaction of Gulf Stream and peninsular with its characteristic afternoon thunder showers. Although lacking the clockwork consistency of June, the rains have come and we must be prepared for them. The relentless and increasing crescendo of rain will, by summer's end, tip the balance in favor of the ubiquitous fungi lurking to attack our orchids. The time to scotch their plans is now; an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Leaving the taxonomic niceties to the experts, fungi which attack orchids in Florida fall into two broad classes; the leaf spotting types (Cercospora and Phyllosticata) and the soft rots (Pythium and Phytophthora). Fortunately, for modern orchidists, excellent systemic fungicides exist for both types. While these chemicals are no substitute for good cultural practices, i.e. adequate spacing, brisk air movement; the strongest possible light combined with careful watering, fungicides provide the edge to approach near total control of most fungal diseases even in their ancestral home, South Florida. May is a good time to take stock of the collection and see which plants are overgrown and need more space or perhaps even re-potting. The increase in air circulation is well worth the effort. Trimming shade trees and moving plants to brighter locations are also good strategies for May. May is also a good time to consider a preventative spray program before disease has a chance to get the upper hand in our collections. An ounce of prevention begins now. Leaf spotting fungi are symptomatic of poor air circulation and inadequate light but even under good growing conditions are rarely entirely absent from orchids in South Florida. This near inevitability results because the same diseases also afflict so many other tropical plants in our gardens. Under the battering of the heavy and sustained rains of our wet season, the most minor of problems can occasionally blossom quickly into a major epidemic. Thiophanate methyl (Cleary's 3336, Domain, Fungo) is the proven and recommended systemic fungicide to control leaf spotting. It is even more effective when combined with Mancozeb (Manzate or Dithane M45.) Two pre-packaged combinations are available; (Duosan, and Tops MZ ). Always follow label recommendations for rate of application. To be truly effective, Thiophanate methyl should be applied initially early in the growing season (IE now!), then again in two weeks and then every 5-6 weeks thereafter across the rainy season. Faithfully followed, this regimen will control nearly all leaf spotting fungus, including the dreaded 'Thai crud': Phyllostictina capitalense. A spreader sticker enhances the effectiveness of the fungicide by holding it on the plant through the hardest rain. The soft black rot of sympodial orchids and crown rot in vandas are caused by two different organisms i.e. Pythium and Phytophthora although in effect they are indistinguishable. Control of these diseases necessitates different chemicals from those used on the leaf spotting diseases. Etridiazole (Truban) has long been used. For the amateur it is readily available in combination with Thiophanate Methyl (the recommended chemical for leaf spotting) in the formulation Banrot. Applied in the same manner suggested above for Thiophanate methyl to control leaf spotting fungi, this pre-packaged combination should be adequate for most circumstances and control crown rot as well. If problems persist two other systemics give excellent control: Aliette (Fosetyl-aluminum) and Subdue 2E (metalaxyl). All chemicals should only be applied at the rates and according to the label instructions. If in doubt about whether to or how to apply a pesticide, always call your County Agricultural Agent at for advice. By Dr. Martin Motes, from his monthly newsletter and book Florida Orchid Growing Monthly advice for orchid growers in South Florida. There's lots of information pertinent to North Florida growers too.subscribe to the monthly newsletter so it will be delivered to you via each month.

13 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 13 The Orchid Society of Coral Gables cordially invites you to our Annual Orchid Auction Tuesday, June 4, 2013 Preview 6:45 pm Auction 7:15 pm Orchids of all types, from growers and hobbyists across the country! Blooming plants, species, divisions, seedlings, and flasks. A great place for a great bargain! Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden Old Cutler Road South Entrance, Garden Room

14 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 14 SOUTH FLORIDA CACTUS & SUCCULENT SOCIETY, INC 30 th ANNUAL CACTUS AND SUCCULENT SHOW & SALE Friday, May 24, 2013 through Sunday, May 26, :30 am. - 4:30 pm Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden (Indoors) Old Cutler Road, Miami, Florida - (305) The South Florida Cactus and Succulent Society celebrates its 40 th birthday and invites everyone from plant enthusiasts to the merely curious to its 30 th Annual Show and Sale for the opportunity to acquire collectible cacti and succulents in a variety of colors, sizes and forms. Wander through an exhibit of superior specimens entered for judged competition. Hundreds of different species of flowering cacti and succulent plants will be offered for sale. Society members will be available at the show to answer questions and provide advice on plant cultivation and propagation techniques. We provide a plant holding are and assist visitors carrying their purchases to their vehicles. View the cactus and succulent sections of Fairchild Tropical Garden including the large Madagascar Section. Enjoy art work by students from Glades Middle School, which will be displayed prominently in our show area. Join us for this memorable experience in the air-conditioned auditorium at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. beginning Friday, May 24 th through Sunday, May 26 th, Entrance to the Show and Sale is free after paid admission to the Garden. Children under 3 will be admitted free to the garden. For further information on the show, the Society at Soflacactus@earthlink.net or call Emy de la Fuente, Jr. at (305)

15 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 15 : Small water-soaked spots appear on the leaves and often are surrounded by yellow halos. If unchecked, the infection will rapidly rot the leaves and roots and spread more slowly into the rhizomes or pseudobulbs. This wet rot may have a foul odor and has a water soaked appearance. - Phalaenopsis. Disease spreads so rapidly that plants may be completely rotted in 2 to 3 days. The bacteria are opportunistic organisms that can enter through wounds. - Dendrobium. Leaves appear yellow and water-soaked and become black and sunken. - Vanda. Leaves develop translucent patches which become black and sunken. - Paphiopedilum. Leaves develop small, round spots often near the middle of the leaf. The spots are initially yellow and water-soaked but eventually become reddish brown and sunken. The spot enlarges in all directions and may reach the growing crown before the leaf tip is affected. If untreated, the disease quickly spreads throughout the plant, leaving it a dark, shriveled mass. - Grammatophyllum. Leaves have water-soaked, browning spots which become black and sunken. Treatment: Immediately remove infected tissue using a sterile instrument, spray bactericides like Physan or copper compounds on infected and adjacent plants following label instructions (copper should not be used on dendrobiums or blooming plants), disinfect growing area with 10% bleach solution. Treat nearby plants as well as those that are diseased. Prevention: The disease is spread by splashing water so avoid overhead watering if the disease is present. The pathogen favors hot and moist conditions, so if infection occurs, keep leaves dry, increase air circulation and reduce temperature and humidity (if possible). Periodic preventive sprays with copper compounds help to prevent infection, particularly during hot and humid weather (do not apply copper to dendrobiums). Always follow label instructions.

16 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 16 Remember we are a SPECIES society and we ask you only bring orchid species for our silent auction. If you want to bid on an orchid, please decide how much you are willing to pay, bid that amount and then walk away from the table. We kindly ask that you not hover around the table so others may see the what we are offering.

17 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 17 Beginner s Culture Class, 6:45 pm Tasks for May 1. Space plants properly for good air circulation. 2. Trim excessive foliage on trees and shrubs. 3. Repot Phalaenopsis out of sphagnum. 4. Finish repotting of various genera. 5. Reset vandaceous plants, remove keikies. 6. Water heavily early in month, more guardedly later. Initiate preventive spray maintenance program Thanks to Dr. Motes

18 Coaliti on f or O r chid Sp ecies may Pag e 18 Get your raffle tickets for a chance to win fabulous orchids from outstanding orchid venders. GOT SPECIES? Get your 2011 COS Newsletters on the web at Special Thanks to Webmasterdesigner Mike Haynes of ISatisfy.com, and Home Page photos by Greg Allikas, The Florida-Caribbean Regional Judging Center of the American Orchid Society invites you to bring your orchids in flower to be judged by our teams of experienced American Orchid Society Judges, or just come to learn more about orchids and the process of judging orchids. We meet the THIRD Saturday of each month at beautiful Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden, Corbin Bldg., Old Cutler Rd., Coral Gables, FL Judging begins promptly at 1:00 p.m.

19 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 19 Bulbophyllums and Their Allies: A Grower's Guide By Emly S. Siegerist This is the first book devoted solely to bulbophyllums, a very diverse group of orchids comprising the largest genus in the orchid family; it is an introductory guide for amateur and advanced orchid growers. The author focuses on those species likely to be cultivated, including 375 Bulbophyllum species and 170 related species and hybrids; she gives practical suggestions on how best to grow each plant in cultivation. Need to reach over 180 people every month to move your products? See Lori Sell for information about placing an advertisement in the When two friends understand each other totally, the words are soft and strong like an orchid's perfume

20 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 20 Please patronize our loyal advertisers! Where Quality is as Traditional as the Orchid Itself SW 182 Ave., Homestead, FL * rforchids@aol.com * For Sale Benches from $65.00 and up (4 to 5 step) For info: call Eddy or Gloria Rodriguez (786) or (786) Susana and Victor Ortiz

21 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 21 Remember it is important for you to make sure you check in in order to get credit for attending the meeting. The number of meetings you attend determine when you get to pick your holiday orchid.

22 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 22 The Board: Coalition for Orchid Species President: Lou Lodyga Past President: Mirta Russis Heineman Vice Pres.: Michele DiBianchi Treasurer: Odalis Navarro Secretary: Lori Sell Trustees: Carlos Segrera, Erna Maxwell, Katria Whitfield, Cynthia White, Vivian Waddell, Bill Capps, Ketty Bergouignan, Carmen Segrera, Rolando Armenteros, Melana Davison Committees: Membership: Vivian Waddel: Conservation: Guillermo Salazar: Newsletter Editor : Bill Capps Advertising/Reporter : Lori Sell Raffle: Carmen Segrera, Pat Chen Yin Photography: open AOS Rep: Lynn Corson Roster: Melana Davison Webpage Liaison: Rolando Armenterso Events Coordinator: Mirta Heineman: Cynthia White: Silent Auction Refreshments: Bert Pressman Scholarship: Dr. Rene Izquierdo Remember we are dedicated to the culture and conservation of species. Please bring only species plants for our silent auction.

23 C o al i ti o n fo r O r c h id Sp e ci e s ma y Pag e 23 William Capps Newsletter Editor