The program is Us. This is a fun day with Pot luck lunch, auctions and individual show tables.

Transcription

1 Central Vancouver Island Orchid Society Newsletter December 2013 President: Shelley Rattink Secretary: Laurie Forbes Membership: Vivian Heinsalu-Burt Treasurer: Joann Gray Editor: Mike Miller Mailing address: P.O. Box 1061, Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 5Z2 web site: Meetings are held September through June on a Saturday at the Harewood Activity Centre, 195 Fourth Street, Nanaimo, in the hall on the second floor, doors open at 11:30, with the business meeting starting at 12:00 noon. Paphiopedilum Temptation Anne-Marie AM/AOS 86pts (Paph. kolopakingii x Paph. philippinense) Exhibitor: Poul Hansen Judith Higham, the photographer Coming Meeting Dates: Dec Jan. 18, Feb. 22, March 15, April 26, May 24, June 21, Sept. 20, Oct. 18, Nov. 22, Dec. 6. Program for may 25 th The program is Us. This is a fun day with Pot luck lunch, auctions and individual show tables. Coming Events: Victoria orchid Society Show and Sale, Lady of Fatima Hall, 4635 Elk Lake Road, Victoria, March 7 th 9 th 2014 Vancouver Orchid Society Show and Sale, VanDusen Gardens Floral Hall, March rd 2014 CVIOS Show and Sale, North Brook Mall (Rutherford), April 11 th 13 th

2 Editorial: This will be your last Newsletter if you have not renewed. There are still 14 who have not made that move. For the Pot Luck Lunch on the 7 th you need to bring a dish to share plus all cutlery and plates and cups you will use. For the auction we need quality plant items and nice stuff and you need to bring money or your check book. The plant displays are card table size with at least one orchid on it. Those of you who missed the November meeting program with Justin Dunning missed an excellent introduction to carnivorous plants we can grow with our orchids both inside and out. That is a form of pest control that is new to most of us but not for long. I think we will have a few of these gnat catchers and maybe some nepenthes for the bigger flying pests. If you want to contact him his address is plantmanvbg@gmail.com. I think all of us can support a small hardy bog with Drosera [Sundews] Pinguicula [Butterworts] an Sarracenia [North American Pitcher Plants] happily devouring wasps etc. Venus Flytraps [Dionaea muscipula] were the surprise of the program. They are hardy!! And grow short with many open leaves ready for prey. All can be grown fairly easily from seed and it can be found free if you know where to look. His favorite book is The Savage Garden by Peter D Amato and the website for answers is OCPS.proboards.com. Think Ontario Carnivorous Plant Society I found three genera on one of my Alpine Plant Seed lists so have sent for seeds already. Am I keen?? Cheers Mike ******************************************************************* The following Photos are the award winner at the Fraser Valley Show. Judith Higham is the photographer Polystachya anceps Eva-Mae Wouters CHM/AOS 80pts Exhibitor: Paramount Orchids Note: award is provisional pending species identification 2

3 Top left: Phragmipedium Baconis Janine HCC/AOS 78pts (Phrag. Conchiferum x Phrag. schlimii) Exhibitor: Yolanda Breck Top right: Paphiopedilum Gina Short Serenity HCC/AOS 76pts (Paph. Pinocchio x Paph. delenatii) Exhibitor: Anne MacDonald Bottom left: Paphiopedilum Hsinying Alien Alicia HCC/AOS 79pts (Paph. Raisin Pie Hsinying x Paph. Supersuk Eureka ) Exhibitor: Yolanda Breck Bottom right: Paphiopedilum Temptation Anne-Marie AM/AOS 86pts (Paph. kolopakingii x Paph. philippinense) Exhibitor: Poul Hansen ******************************************************************* 3

4 Orchid Scents Flowers Stimulate the Senses with Fragrances Ranging from Foul to Flattering By Ken Slump Most corsage buyers and recipients would probably tell you that while orchids are commonly regarded as the most exotic and choice of blossoms for that application, they are, unfortunately, not fragrant. But orchid growers know that this is far from the truth. While many orchids do lack perfume, there are plenty with remarkably strong and distinctive scents. However, floral aromas have not evolved for the amusement of humans. Their sole purpose is to attract a pollinator to the flower. Many fragrant orchids release their scents only during certain hours of the day or night to attract specific pollinators. One of most popular and best known fragrant orchids is Brassavola nodosa, frequently called lady of the night. The orchid's common name is derived from its sweet perfume, which is released as the sun goes down so that its pollinator can locate it. The pollinator is a moth. Like many evening-pollinated blossoms, the flowers are also white, making them easier to differentiate in dim light. I knew one orchid grower who enjoyed the Rhyncholaelia (syn. Brassavola) digbyana 'Doris Viola', AM/AOS, is one of B. nodosa fragrance so much that he two species in this genus prized for its scented flowers. would take his plant to the bedside Grower: Bert Pressman. table when it was in bloom in order to enjoy the aroma while he slept. Most other Brassavola species have similar fragrances that are released during the evening hours. Happily, many of their hybrids share the characteristic. 4

5 The genus Brassavola belongs to the larger group of orchids commonly called the Cattleya Alliance. There are quite a number of fragrant species and hybrids within this group that possess variously sweet floral aromas that are mostly fragrant by day. CATTLEYAS The subgroup popularly known as bifoliate cattleyas includes a number of fragrant species. Some of these include Cattleya bicolor, Cattleya aclandiae, Cattleya schilleriana, Cattleya walkeriana and Cattleya guttata. Hybrids derived from these are frequently scented as well, particularly when crossed with each other or with scented species and hybrids from the unifoliate Cattleya and Laelia groups. LEFT Lady-of-the-night is an appropriate moniker to describe the fragrant Brassavola nodosa 'Woodbine', AM/AOS. Grower: Harold and Rona Goldstein. RIGHT Cattleya aclandiae 'Maria Gouveia', AM/AOS. Grower: Dr. Wojciech Klikunas. LEFT Cattleya schilleriana 'Hoodview', HCC/AOS Grower: Bill Leonard. Two of the sweetest-scented Cattleya relatives are Rhyncholaelia digbyana and Rhyncholaelia glauca, which are typically most fragrant in the evening. (Both of these were previously classified in the genus Brassavola.) Their scents have been likened to lemon and lily-of-the-valley. Hybrids derived from these species often carry fragrance as well. All orchid scents are not pleasing, or perhaps I should say they are not pleasing to all people. While I have not studied it scientifically, it seems to me that each person's sense of smell may be unique. Repeatedly, I have found fragrances that are pleasing to me are less well received by someone else, and sometimes the reverse is true. There have also been times I have enjoyed a blossom's floral scent when another person nearby could detect no fragrance in the same flower. Perhaps that is the crux of the perfume industry. 5

6 BULBOPHYLLUMS Fortunately, the majority seems to agree on which flowers smell good and which do not, and most concur that some of the least pleasant orchid scents are offered by some of the species belonging to the large amalgamation of orchids from the diverse genus Bulbophyllum. These real stinkers of the orchid clan have evolved to be pollinated by flies, which, to no one's surprise, are strongly attracted to flowers that smell like feces or rotting flesh. Some of their aromas are legendary and I have seen more than one novice unsuspectingly coaxed into taking a good whiff of one, to the delight of those goading them. Bulbophyllum beccarii, Bulbophyllum echinolabium and Bulbophyllum rothschildianum are but a few of numerous offenders. Even the fascinating tufted blossoms of Bulbophyllum medusae have a scent that is less than pretty, though not as foul as some. This is not to say that every Bulbophyllum flower has an obnoxious odor, but beware before you stick your nose into an unknown one. LEFT Appreciating the fragrance of some Bulbophyllums, such as Bulbophyllum rothschildianum 'Jerry Elmore', AM/AOS, is an acquired taste. Grower: Elmore Orchids. RIGHT Bulbophyllum beccarii 'Rainbow', CBR/AOS. Grower: Bob and Marion Fallon. THE VANDA CLAN LEFT Several vandas offer frangrance in addition to colorful flowers, among them Vanda denisoniana 'J.E.M. II', HCC/AOS. Grower: J.E.M. Orchids. RIGHT Vanda tricolor 'Summerland', HCC/AOS. Grower: B. Kollenborn Landscape and Orchids 6

7 Better scents are offered by numerous of vandaceous orchids. In fact, a number of scented species in the genus Vanda itself have aromas frequently described as fruity or spicy. These include Vanda dearei, Vanda denisoniana, Vanda merrillii and Vanda tricolor, to name a few. Some are surprised to learn that there are fragrant species in the genus Phalaenopsis as well, because it is unusual to encounter a fragrant example among the ubiquitous hybrid swarms that seem to be offered by all types of retail establishments these days. Plus, fragrant Phalaenopsis tend to have a delicate scent that is not heady, so fragrant examples may go unnoticed. Among the fragrant Phalaenopsis species are Phalaenopsis violacea, Phalaenopsis bellina, Phalaenopsis amboinensis, Phalaenopsis schilleriana and Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana. A few of their hybrids are scented too. Above Left - Vanda merrillii'big Mike', HCC/AOS. Grower: Mike and Carol Anderson. Above Middle - Among the fragrant species of Phalaenopsis is Phalaenopsis bellina 'Zuma Hills', HCC/AOS. Grower: Zuma Canyon Orchids. Above Right - Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana 'Ruby Giant', AM/AOS. Grower: Stones River Orchids. If it is a stronger fragrance you seek, you need look no further than the vandaceous cousins from Africa and Madagascar that compose the genus Angraecum. Most feature white, creamcolored or pale greenish starry flowers with a conspicuous nectar spur at the base of the lip. The almost overpowering fragrance of some helps to lure moth pollinators during the night. The fragrance has been likened to jasmine. If you have room for a somewhat sizeable plant, Angraecum sesquipedale is one of the most impressive. RIGHT: Cinnamon-scented flowers are typical of Lycaste aromatica 'Bob and Eleanor', CCM/AOS. Grower: Bob Sanker. 7

8 LEFT Angraecum sesquipedale 'Estrella Blanca', HCC/AOS, can become a sizeable specimen. Grower: Peter Kurtz. If space is a problem, look for a diminutive cousin Neofinetia falcata. This miniature comes from Japan and produces a lot of scent for such small flowers. Unlike the Angraecum, however, these are fragrant during the day as well as the night. This species has been a parent of compactgrowing fragrant offspring as well. AND MORE There are particular orchid species with flowers possessing such a distinctive fragrance you can nearly identify them by it. Maxillaria tenuifolia carries the strong odor of coconut, while Lycaste aromatica smells like cinnamon. Paphiopedilum malipoense offers a light raspberry scent. Fragrant flowers are rather common in many other branches of the orchid family. There are a number of scented species in the large and varied genus Dendrobium. The same is true for the genera Stanhopea, Gongora, Aerangis, Catasetum, Oncidium, Rhynchostylis, Lycaste and Miltoniopsis. With so many from which to choose, it is easy to build an orchid collection that stimulates not only the eyes, but also the Paphiopedilum malipoense offers a light nose, and that makes good sense. raspberry fragrance. Shown here is the clone 'Candor Spring Green', AM/AOS. Grower: Bob and Lynn Wellenstein 10 Fragrant Orchids Here is a quick list of 10 additional species and hybrids not mentioned in the main article that I have grown and enjoyed, all of which have the added attraction of fragrance. Aeranthes grandiflora Brassia Edvah Loo 'Nishida', HCC/AOS (arcuigera x gireoudiana) Cattleya Chocolate Drop 'Kodama', AM/AOS (guttata x aurantiaca) Coelogyne cristata Dendrobium Golden Aya (aphrodite x capillipes) Dendrochilum cobbianum Encyclia cordigera (syn. Epidendrum atropurpureum) Oncidium Sharry Baby 'Sweet Fragrance', AM/AOS (Jamie Sutton x Honolulu) Sedirea japonica Zygopetalum mackayi American Orchid Society, ORCHIDS, January 2006 ******************************************************************* 8

9 Growing Cymbidiums Tom Buckman s Way By Tom Buckman Cymbidiums are backyard grown in Oceanside, CA (northern San Diego county) and I have them under 50% shade cloth. The yard faces south to southwest, with sun most of the day. The plants are all on benches raised off the ground about 18 inches. They get good air circulation when not too crowded. Winter temperatures, about 5 feet above the ground, drop to the mid-thirty degree range in the early morning hours and I do get frost forming on my car some mornings. The lowest temperature I have known was 26 degrees F. During the winter of 1986/1987, there was frost damage to buds on plants that were out from under the shade cloth. On the other extreme, the most damage done by weather was from sunburn during a santana wind condition from afternoon sun on leaves not protected by shade cloth. When spikes start to form (indicated by a round, bullet -shaped tip as opposed to a flat, pointy tip on a new growth), I place a stake next to it, with a plastic ribbon flag on top, to remind me to tie up the spike as it grows and to be careful when watering. My only problem is that my dog doesn't pay any attention to my flags! When buds on spikes start to extend and swell, I try to bring as many plants as possible into my patio, especially the whites, yellows and light pinks, to keep them from getting sunburned sepals. The reds, browns, dark pinks and dark greens I leave out until the buds start to open, in order to get richer, darker colors. For example: Cym. Bethlehem 'Early Times', if flowered outside, has a rich brownish green color and when flowered in deep shade, the flowers will be a very washed-out, pale-green. This is also the time to start fighting snails and slugs. I use Ortho snail and slug bait. FERTILIZER I use Osmocote ( ) and ( ) and I try to remember to fertilize every three months. I use approximately 1/2 teaspoon for a one gallon pot. The best flowering results that I have ever got were when using the following balances: January ( ) April ( ) July ( ) October ( ). WATERING I generally water once a week, with the exceptions being during the rainy season (less) or santana wind condition (more). I use a Gardena wand that has an ON/OFF control valve which allows you to vary the volume and pressure at the nozzle. I water each plant (aim at the bulbs) about 3 seconds, do about 40 plants, then repeat it two more times (total of3 soakings). DIVIDING AND REPOTTING I try to divide and repot all of my plants that need it right after they finish their blooming cycle, or if they fail to bloom and need it. I try to complete them all by at least the end of July. With my condition of crowded plants, if I receive a plant from someone who uses a 'soil' mix or compost mix, I have to repot it as soon as possible, or I end up with soggy, rotted roots within a year. POTTING MIX OR 'MEDIUM' I use Sequoia brand Pathway bark in the blue bag, 3 cubic feet, of the 1/2" to 3/4" size. I also use Aztec brand Perlite, #3 size (large), that comes in a 4 cubic foot bag for about $5.30. I don't measure the proportions, but just dump and mix until it looks right (about 20% Perlite). 9

10 POTTING PROCEDURE I soak the plant to be repotted prior to dividing, either while it is still in the pot or after I have knocked the pot off the plant with my rubber mallet. I remove the old mix starting at the bottom and the side where the back bulbs started. When dividing the plant, I determine the size of the divisions I want. For keepers, I am presently using two gallon pots for standard Cymbidiums. Even though I have very few miniature or novelty Cymbidiums, those that I do have I put in one gallon pots. After I get most of the old mix out, I try to pry the plant apart from where the back bulbs started. Most of the roots on the old part of the plant will be useless to the back bulbs, so if they are damaged, it is of no loss. If you have many back bulbs in the center of your plant, it makes it easier if you cut or pull out the old bulbs before breaking up your plant. Spread the divisions until you hear or feel the connecting joints break apart or take a cutter and snip it. When I have my divisions, I rinse the roots to clean off the old decomposed mix, then I trim off dead or badly damaged roots. Before I put them in a pot, I spray the roots with Naccosan mixed in water (about a cap full to 20 oz. in a spray bottle). CAUTION: Always watch for a new growth (eyes) coming out from the bulb base---do NOT TOUCH!! They break off easily. They are your new growth, or if dividing late, your flower spike. DIVISIONS For my two gallon pots or scotch tubs, I try to get 3 or 4 mature bulbs, the ones already swollen. They usually have some new growths at different stages. For my one gallon pots, I try for 2 mature green bulbs or 1 back bulb with a mature green bulb and hopefully a new growth. FINALLY-THE POTTING!! I gather all the leaves in one hand with the back bulb or oldest bulb towards me. I then put a couple of handfuls of mix in the bottom of the pot and set the division in the pot with the oldest bulb against the side of the pot and the newer bulbs toward the center of the pot. I hold the division so the bulbs are about half-way down in the pot and start adding mix. As it starts filling up, I raise the plant so the mix ends up about 112" to 3/4" below the top of the pot and the bottom of the bulbs have mix around them. I pack mix in with my fingers as I fill. You can use a tamping stick, but only out near the edge of the pot, so that you don't damage the roots. I then place about 1/2 teaspoon of Osmocote ( ) over the top of the mix. Next I write up a new tag with the current month and year. I also write the number or name of the plant and the date I repotted on the side of the pot with a paint pen, in case my dog pulls the tag out of the pot to chew on it. Then I try to find room on the benches to set it out to grow and hopefully to bloom. BACK BULBS I try to clean all dead leaf bases from my back bulbs as this gives less places for bugs to hide and breed. I put my back bulbs in plastic shopping bags, spray them with Naccosan mix, tie the handles together and set them under the bench in my greenhouse or in the storage shed out of direct sunlight. Check for growth and roots in about 2 to 3 months, and if present, the back bulbs can be individually potted into 2 or 3 inch pots using your regular potting mix. They can grow this way until at least a mature bulb is formed. Orchid Advocate, Vol. 16 #2, March-April