kilmahew: landscape overview
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- Alvin Dixon
- 6 years ago
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1 prepared by erz Limited February 2009 draft report: for comment
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3 contents: Introduction 4 Study approach 5 Strategic overview: - site location 6 - topography 7 - site history 8 - circulation 10 - built elements 11 - woodland age/origin 12 - geology 13 Detailed visual and spatial analysis: - views/visual analysis 14 - spatial sub-division of site 17 - detailed description: burn spaces 18 - detailed description: buildings/manipulated landscape 22 - detailed description: woodland spaces 26 - detailed description: meadow space 28 References 30
4 introduction: erz Limited were commissioned by NVA Organisation in January 2009 to undertake an initial study of the landscape at Kilmahew in Argyll and Bute. The study is intended to develop a fuller understanding of the site and the qualities of this complex landscape. It is a focused, interim piece of work, to inform dialogue and the development of a creative response to the site. The study has been undertaken in parallel with an initial ecological assessment and preliminary woodland assessment by ESS Ltd. In combination, the three studies provide a broad baseline of information. erz Limited 5 Aird's Lane Glasgow G1 5HU Tel:
5 study approach: The study includes 2 main sets of information and analysis: - a strategic overview of the site: this is focused on developing a clear overall understanding of the site in terms of its setting and the main natural and cultural processes that have shaped it. - a detailed visual and spatial analysis of the site: this considers the nature of visual enclosure and views within and around the site and the subdivision of the site into its component visual spaces. This provides a comprehensive analysis of the site in terms of human spatial experience. The strategic overview was developed through a combination of desk and field work. Published documentary and mapped information was collated and reviewed. Through site work, this material was interpreted and a broad summary and analysis of the material prepared. The visual and spatial analysis was developed through fieldwork. A series of structured site walks were carried out in January 2009, to build up a comprehensive picture of the spatial and visual structure of the site. The material is, as far as possible, presented in a graphic format for ease of communication.
6 strategic overview: Cardross Golf Course site boundary Carman Road Site location/limits: The site lies approximately 20 miles north-west of central Glasgow, to the north-east of Cardross village in Argyll and Bute. It borders Cardross Golf Course to the west and Carman Road runs along the site s eastern boundary. The site covers approximately 40 hectares and is predominantly wooded. The site lies within the Green Belt. The site contains numerous built and landscape features of interest, which are discussed later.
7 strategic overview: Topography: The site sits on elevated ground to the north-east of Cardross, rising from the Clyde estuary. It sits in a transitional position between the lower improved and inhabited land (to the west around Cardross) and hill farmland to the east. The site is focused upon 2 burns: Kilmahew Burn and Wallacetown Burn, which converge in the southern part of the site. Within the context of the broader topography, the site demonstrates a more intricate sculpting of landform. The glens associated with the 2 burns are strongly defined and in places enclosed by steep slopes and cliffs. < 35m > 75m
8 strategic overview: Site History: Kilmahew as a place name is shown on early maps of the area. The name is derived from the chapel of St Mahew (or Mochta) that is said to have existed since earliest Christian times. In the 13th century, the land around Kilmahew was recorded as being in the ownership of John Napier. It is thought that the current Kilmahew castle was built in the 15th or 16th century, with later phases in the mid/late 18th century and early 19th century. Eighteenth century maps suggest the presence of an early residence in the triangular area between the 2 burns. Otherwise the landscape consisted of woodland bordering the burns set within a subdivided agricultural landscape. This stage of the evolution of the landscape is described in the 1895 plan (adjacent). The estate was sold by the Napier family in the early 19th century and later (around the middle of the 19th century) was bought by James Burns (one of the founders of the Cunard shipping line). Between , Burn s son commissioned the design and construction of a new mansion house. historic plan of Kilmahew (northern portion): 1895
9 strategic overview: Site History: Extensive improvements and expansion of the estate were undertaken in this period. This included the planting of surrounding farmland as parkland, the construction of roads, bridges, lodges, stables and a large kitchen garden with glasshouses. The emerging designed landscape incorporated a network of paths and associated footbridges. This enabled the visitor to explore the wooded glens, existing features such as the ruins of Kilmahew Castle and new ones such as an artificial lake and curling pond. The planting at this time incorporated many exotic non-native species apparently collected via links with the Cunard shipping line. The family opened the grounds regularly to visitors. This stage of the evolution of the landscape is described in the 1898 plan (adjacent). In 1919 the estate was put up for sale. Further modernisation was undertaken by the new owner (Claud Allan). The Archdiocese of Glasgow acquired the estate in Kilmahew House was brought into use for theological students. In 1953 architects Gillespie Kidd and Coia were approached to consider an extension to Kilmahew House. This evolved into the design of a new set of buildings wrapped around the existing house. Construction started in 1961 and the seminary opened in The seminary was only occupied for 14 years, finally closing in The building was used for 5 years in the 1980 s as a drug rehabilitation centre. The buildings subsequently fell into a derelict state. Kilmahew House suffered two fires and was demolished in In 1993 the Secretary of State listed the seminary buildings as of special architectural importance, Category A. historic plan of Kilmahew (northern portion): 1898
10 strategic overview: Western approach Southern approach Circulation: The main access and circulation network for the site, as laid out in the late 19th century is still in evidence. The main points of access and approach are from the west and south, with the routes converging prior to crossing Kilmahew Burn and the approach to the site of the former Kilmahew House and seminary buildings. These main routes were marked at the entry points by gatehouses/lodges. The western approach lodge is in a ruined state and the southern approach lodge has recently been demolished. Beyond these broader routes, the wider path network laid out as part of the designed landscape is frequently impassable. The paths are - on thorough examination - traceable, however in many cases they have been overgrown and cannot be followed. The (stone) bridges for the main (vehicular routes) are essentially intact, although parapets and portions of the structures are missing. The (metal) pedestrian bridges have essentially all collapsed and are beyond repair. Movement through the woodland areas is made difficult or impossible for much of the site because of the dense growth of Rhododendron ponticum that blankets the site.
11 strategic overview: Built elements: The built features on the site are of diverse form and origin. The oldest built feature in evidence is the ruin of Kilmahew Castle, which is of medieval origin, although modified at later stages. Kilmahew Castle is a Scheduled Ancient Monument. There are numerous built features that date from the late 19th century as follows: - Kilmahew House (demolished) - western approach lodge (ruin) - southern approach lodge (demolished) - stable (demolished) - high arched bridge - low double bridge - walled garden (walls partially collapsed) - tennis courts (overgrown) - swan pond/artificial lake It is notable that of the 19th century structures - all of the buildings are now demolished or in a ruined state. The most intact constructed features are the stone bridges, swan pond and walled garden. The main features from the post war period are the seminary buildings, which are in a ruined state. The seminary buildings are Category A Listed, are on the Buildings at Risk Register (1990) and on the World Monument watch List (2008). Intriguingly, the site demonstrates ruins from the medieval period, 19th century and 20th century. Kilmahew Castle swan pond western approach lodge stables low double bridge Kilmahew House & seminary buildings high arched bridge tennis courts walled garden southern approach lodge
12 strategic overview: woodland (after 1895) woodland (predating 1895) Woodland age/origin: The woodland is a large diverse mixed woodland of both native and non-native species. The Forestry Commission Scotland Land Information Search identifies most of the woodland on the site as being of Ancient Woodland origin. The plan adjacent overlays information from pre and post 1895 historic plans to highlight the differing age and origin of areas of woodland on the site. Essentially the core areas of woodland (darker green) pre-date the designed landscape interventions of the late 19th century. The remaining areas of woodland (light green) were planted as part of the late 19th century designed landscape. There has been a long standing continuity of woodland cover through the core of the site - as reflected in the Forestry Commission description. However, there is little evidence of veteran or overmature trees on the site. A preliminary woodland assessment has been undertaken (by ESS Ltd.) which notes that The canopy is even-aged high forest, dominated by tall straight stems with virtually no lateral branching... Older, larger or, in foresters terminology, overmature trees with more natural growth forms are fairly scarce. The area surrounding Wallacetown Burn is designated as a Site of Interest for Nature Conservation.
13 strategic overview: Geology: Observations on the solid geology were made on site and were reviewed in the context of the British Geological Survey (Scotland) 1:10,560 sheet NS 37 NE. The most commonly evident bedrock is the red sandstone revealed in the beds of the Kilmahew and Wallacestone burns. The variation in rock types noted on the drawing are extracted from the geological plan. The presence of the whin dyke and the band of conglomerate rock that are revealed along the line of the Kilmahew burn were observed on site. The presence of the Gartness Fault is indicated as per the geological plan. The broad alignment of the fault is consistent with the presence and orientation of the bands of igneous and metamorphic rock in this part of the site. The underlying geology is at the root of the differing character of the 2 watercourses as they pass through the site. The presence of the bands of harder rock across the line of Kilmahew Burn give rise to its changes in character, with dramatic waterfalls and a more steeply incised gorge in the red sandstone downstream from the bands of harder rock. Wallacetown Burn, although with some variation, has a more constant character, flowing consistently over red sandstone bedrock. Gartness Fault grey-purple flaggy sandstone & thin purple shales bright red mudstone exposed whin dyke exposed band of conglomerate red-purple sandstone with bands of conglomerate bright red sandstone bright red crossbedded sandstone
14 detailed visual/spatial analysis: Visual enclosure & long views: As noted, the site is located in the context of elevated ground rising to the north of Cardross village. However, arising from the presence of the glens through which the burns flow, much of the site area is visually enclosed and does not offer views out to the wider landscape. There are particular points through the site where long, panoramic views are afforded. These more elevated portions of the site have in at least 2 cases been the sites of settlement and building. In the northern part of the site, the area around and including Kilmahew Castle offers long views to the Clyde estuary. This site takes the form of a local promontory a localised high point, which through the presence of the Kilmahew glen to the east, overlooks lower ground on 3 sides. The other locations where long views are afforded are in the eastern portion of the site. The site of Kilmahew House and St Peter s seminary sits high relative to the adjacent burnside space. Long and panaromic views are achieved here primarily through the additional elevation offered by the buildings themselves. The upper floors of the buildings benefit from panoramic views of the Clyde Estuary. The east field, the meadow area that sits between the 2 burns rises to the north-east. Particularly from the upper portion of this space, long panoramic views open up. The lower part of the space offers some long views, but they are increasingly interupted by the woodland as one descends toward the walled garden.
15 detailed visual/spatial analysis: Visual enclosure/immediate views: In addition to the notable long views, there are also a number fo points around the site where short, more immediate views are offered to the adjacent spaces. These immediate views are perhaps surprisingly limited.the northern portion of the site offers views out to the adjacent fields, there are 2 sections of the southern approach road where views open up to the adjacent golf course (which are partially screened in some areas by Rhododendron growth). There are similarly partially screened views out to the golf course from the vicinity of the swan pond. The visual power of the site is in part a result of its enclosed nature and the sudden unexpected revealing of long and panoramic views. By contrast, the few locations where local views open up lack drama and have a less surprising and in the case of views to the golf course, a more suburban character.
16 detailed visual/spatial analysis: Open views within site: The combination of the site s topography and woodland vegetation results in relatively few open views/larger visual spaces within the site. The key open views within the site can be quite clearly identified, from north to south, as follows: - the space around Kilmahew Castle: the elevated promontory offers views into and along the upper portion of the Kilmahew Burn glen. - the open water of the swan pond offers a locally open view. - the largest open visual space within the site is the space to the immediate west and north of the former Kilmahew House and St Peter s Seminary. Here Kilmahew Burn flows through a much broader space - which contrasts strongly to the defined and enclosed glen spaces to the immediate north and south. This space is visually dominated by the buldings, which sit in a commanding, elevated position on the eastern edge of the space. - the arched bridge that crosses dramatically high over the (at this point) deeply cut gorge of Kilmahew Burn, offers long views along the burn, to the north and south. This is also the first point upon approaching from the main estate entrances, that the seminary buildings come into view. - on the southern approach, in the vicinity of the low double bridges, the topography allows more open views (although filtered by trees) to the walled garden and Kilmahew Burn to the east and into the woodland area immediately to the west. - to the north and east of the walled garden there are localised views into the open east park meadow space.
17 detailed visual/spatial analysis: Spatial subdivision of site: Informed by fieldwork, the site has been sub-divided into its component visual spaces. This sub-division is broadly determined by 2 factors: - visual enclosure: where landform or other elements such as vegetation create a defined edge and prevent views through to adjacent areas. Such edges can be hard and essentially strongly defined (such as by landform) or can be looser and there is some intervisibility between spaces. Visual enclosure and the definition of a clear visual space has been the primary determinant in the sub-division of the site. - character/coherence: where spaces have strongly defining characteristics (such as a consistent gradual slope, particular forms of vegetation etc.) this may help inform the break between spaces where the visual enclosure (edge) is more loosely defined. The adjacent plan is graphically complex, but records a comprehensive analysis of the site in terms of human spatial experience. To assist in understanding this sub-division of space, in the following section, the spaces have been grouped in terms of 4 broad typologies: - spaces along the Kilmahew and Wallacetown burns - spaces defined by built elements or manipulated landscapes - woodland spaces - the meadow space In each case the relevant spaces are identified and described with representative images.
18 detailed visual/spatial analysis: Kilmahew Burn confluence K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 C1 C2 C3 W3 W2 W1 Wallacetown Burn Burn spaces: The course of the 2 burns that pass through the site are at the core of its form and character. The spaces through which the burns flow (as defined through the visual/spatial analysis) are described in this section. This exercise highlights the changing character of both watercourses as they pass through the site and also the distinctly different character of Kilmahew Burn and Wallacetown Burn. The different spaces have been described sequentially for both burns, from their respective entry points in the upper parts of the site to the confluence and thereafter to the exit of the burn to the south. Photographic images of each space are sequentially organised in the following pages. The spaces and key characteristics are as follows: Kilmahew Burn: K1 point of entry: farm track & stone walls, ford crossing of burn K2 well defined & enclosed linear valley space, wooded slopes down to burn K3 igneous intrusion: whin dyke - change in rock type impacting on character: waterfalls, cliffs, dramatic tightly defined space around burn K4 broader, more open landscape space through which burn flows. Space visually dominated by seminary build ings. Form of burn manipulated/controlled as part of former designed landscape. K5 tightly defined, steep sided gorge. Variation in geology in stream bed: band of conglomerate metamorphic rock. Dramatic relationship to seminary buildings & arched bridge. K6 broad & well defined valley, with steep densely wooded slopes down to burn. Consistent form/character. K7 less defined valley/gorge within broader visual space Wallacetown Burn: W1 point of entry: farm track & relatively loosely defined val ley, wooded space W2 well defined & enclosed broad valley space, steep wood ed slopes down to burn W3 narrower space along burn, walled garden and meadow partly visible, sudden break of slope to southern edge defines burn from wider woodland spaces Confluence/southern exit: C1 confluence of the 2 burns: interesting landscape feature C2 narrow but deeply incised red sandstone channel C3 enclosed valley space, wooded slopes down to burn
19 detailed visual/spatial analysis: K1 K1 ford K2 k2 well defined valley with wooded slopes K3 K3 enclosed space, igneous geologiical features (whin dyke), waterfalls, steep cliffs K3 K4 K4 broad space visually dominated by seminary buildings K4 K4 former designed landscape, burn canalised & course manipulated K4
20 detailed visual/spatial analysis: K5 arched bridge K6 K5 tightly defined/steep sided gorge K6 broad, well defined valley, steep wooded slopes down to burn K7 low double bridge C1
21 detailed visual/spatial analysis: W1 W1 point of entry - relatively open W2 W2 W2 well defined valley with wooded slopes W3 W3 burn channel - views to walled garden to north, enclosed to south/ C1: confluence C1 C2 C2 deeply incised channel C3 C3 wooded valley to exit
22 detailed visual/spatial analysis: B1 L2 L3 L6 K1 L1 K4 B2 B3 L7 B5 L6 L4 L5 B4 Buildings / manipulated landscape: The site has been the locus of built and designed landscape intervention over a long period of time. These successive layers of culturally defined landscape are still powerfully evident. These layers range from the medieval Kilmahew Castle, to the remnants of the 19th century buildings and designed landscape and the 20th century modernist seminary buildings. The spaces that contain the main evidence of human intervention are described in this section. The different spaces have been described broadly sequentially from north to south - with a distinction noted between those containing the remnant built elements (B), and landscape elements (including sites of former buildings) (L). Photographic images of each space are sequentially organised in the following pages. The spaces and key characteristics are as follows: Kilmahew Burn: K1 farm track & stone walls, ford crossing of burn K4 broad, more open landscape space through which burn flows. Space visually dominated by seminary build ings. Evidence of former designed landscape. Buildings: B1 Kilmahew Castle (ruin), sitting on local promontory of higher ground, broadly flat wooded site with panoramic views to south & views down to Kilmahew Burn. B2 St Peter s Seminary buildings (derelict) & footprint of former Kilmahew House (demolished). Buildings enclosed to east and visually commanding space to west B3 arched bridge (parapets missing in part) B4 walled garden (derelict): notably this defines 3 distinct areas: the core walled garden space, the outer partially enclosed garden space and the service/anciliary spaces/ buildings to the northern edge. B5 low double bridge (parapets missing in part) Landscape: L1 avenue of Tilia trees defining drive up to castle L2 swan pond L3 Rhododendron tunnel L4 approach space to seminary: sudden reveal L5 former tennis courts (overgrown) L6 drive/approach to former house/seminary from south. The visual space along this route opens up and closes down as shown. More open views are afforded to the surrounding landscape in the area around the low bridge. At the southern entrance is the site of the former gatehouse/lodge (recently demolished) L7 terraced clearing: site of former stables (demolished)
23 detailed visual/spatial analysis: B1 B1 Kilmahew Castle: elevated promontory, broadly flat wooded site K2 B1 B2 B2 St Peter s Seminary buildings: derelict condition B2 K4 B2
24 detailed visual/spatial analysis: B2 St Peter s Seminary buildings: derelict condition B2 remnants of demolished Kilmahew House K2 B1 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 high arched bridge over Kilmahew Burn B4 B4 B4 walled garden: derelict glass houses & anciliary buildings B4 B5 low double bridge: red sandstone parapet detail B5
25 detailed visual/spatial analysis: L1 arched L5 bridge K6 L1 avenue of Tilia spp. (lime) trees on route to castle / L2 swan pond L5 overgrown tennis courts / L6 southern approach/drive L2 L6 L4 L6 L4 immediate approach to seminary buildings L6 site of former southern approach lodge / example of exotic species:giant redwood
26 detailed visual/spatial analysis: W W W W W W W W W W Woodland spaces: The site is predominantly wooded and the presence of woodland throughout unites the character of the site. The spaces identified and described here are visually distinct, generally not steeply sloping and where the character can be described as essentially coherent woodland. The woodland in these areas is typically of mixed native species. The structure and ground layer varies, but typically (as for much of the site) they are overrun with Rhododendron ponticum. Representative photographic images are included opposite.
27 detailed visual/spatial analysis: K2 B1 B4
28 detailed visual/spatial analysis: M Meadow space: Within the site area, this represents a unique landscape space of open meadow. Representative photographic images are included opposite.
29 detailed visual/spatial analysis: K2 B4
30 references: documents: - St Peter s Seminary Cardross: Conservation Assessment main report. Prepared by Avanti Architects, October Scottish Wildlife Trust (1998) Site Survey - Kilmahew Woodland, Cardross, Argylle & Bute. NW Clyde Wildlife Sites Team.
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